Nick Dobson Wines Alto Adige

Alto Adige

Church at Kurtatsch

Flag of South Tyrol

Alto Adige is the northern part of the region known as Trentino-Alto Adige in north-eastern Italy, just south of the Alps and bordering Austria. The Austrian connection is important; until the end of World War 1, this used to be part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, it was annexed by Italy at the end of WW1 and became part of the Italian region known as Venezia Tridentina. Alto Adige as it exists today was created in 1926 after an administrative reorganization of the Kingdom of Italy. It was given a special autonomous status after World War II, resulting ultimately in the considerable level of self-government it enjoys today. A visitor to the region may sense that Alto Adige does not always have the "look and feel" of Italy; indeed much of the place seems very Tyrolean, and German is widely spoken, by many as a first language. There is a strong sense of independence here - some wine producers talk quite seriously of "exporting to Italy". The main city, Bolzano, is clean, bright, and well-kept, and this region enjoys one of the highest standards of living in Europe. Alto Adige produces a fascinating range of wines, from both international and local grape varieties including Lagrein and Goldmuskateller. The region has a particular claim to viticultural fame - the village of Tramin (Termeno in Italian) is widely accepted as being the birthplace of Gewürztraminer, now one of the world's premier grape varieties. The industry in Alto Adige is dominated by small producers, some of whose output ranks amongst the best of Italian wines, yet by volume it is relatively insignificant, producing only some 1% of the country's output. It's a strikingly beautiful region, with the stunning Dolomite mountains and glorious countryside begging to be explored.

Yours truly in the Milla vineyard at Kurtatsch

Alto Adige Mixed Case
Ref: ALTOADIGEMIX01

As a way of exploring the wines from Alto Adige, what could possibly be better than a mixed case composed of a selection of wines from our Alto Adige range. This great case gives you the opportunity to try wines from different grape varieties (both indigenous and international), producers, and sub-zones. Click on MORE to see the case composition.

Price: £165.42 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Kellerei Kurtatsch/Cantina di Cortaccia

A small co-operative producer located in the village of Kurtatsch, also known in Italian as Cortaccia in bilingual Alto Adige. The village is located high on a sunny plateau overlooking the Etsch valley. This is a place of extraordinary beauty, surrounded by orchards, vineyards, and forests, with splendid views of the Dolomite mountains. The Cypress trees which are found throughout the area adorn the labels of Kellerei Kurtatsch wines. Their wide range is produced from grape varieties typical to the region, grown in fertile soils. These wines offer some of the best values we have found in the region.

Sauvignon 2008 Kellerei Kurtatsch Kurtatsch
Ref: 3950012

Sauvignon was introduced to south Tyrol from Bordeaux at the end of the 19th century, and was found to be most successful in sunny well-ventilated slopes at altitudes of 400 and 600 meters - such as the area around Kurtatsch. On deep gravelly soils the grape produces a delicate smooth and juicy wine, with lively acidity and good body. This wine works particularly well as an apéritif and with asparagus dishes - serve around 10-11°C.

Price: £10.30 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Gewürztraminer 2007 Kellerei Kurtatsch Kurtatsch
Ref: 3950013

Ever since the thirteenth century, the "Traminer" has been the most famous wine grown in the south Tyrol. It is generally understood that modern Gewürztraminer (Traminer Aramatico in Italian) is derived from the Traminer, a green-skinned grape that originated from the Italian village of Tramin (Termeno), the adjacent village to Kurtatsch. Over the centuries, the
Gewürztraminer has spread around the world and is now one of the world's principal grape varieties.

In the hilly limestone and clay vineyards around Kurtatsch, this aromatic variety finds its ideal habitat. A limpid pale golden yellow, with aromas of rose petals, magnolia, and lychees, this wine is fresh and fruity, full-bodied, with good minerality. Serve around 11-12°C with prawns and lobster dishes; also particularly suitable for drinking with Asian cuisine, Munster cheese, fleshy, fatty wild game and smoked salmon.

Price: £13.40 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Weissburgunder/Pinot Bianco 2008 Kellerei Kurtatsch Kurtatsch
Ref: 3950014

The Pinot Blanc grape was first introduced to south Tyrol 150 years ago from Burgundy. It spread rapidly throughout the region from the early decades of the 20th century, and in now an important variety there.

This wine, from the slopes around Kurtatsch, ia a pale yellow-green colour, with fresh apple and pear aromas; these are reflected on the fresh lively palate, along with a clean smooth minerality. Drink around 10-11°C, as an apéritif, or with all sorts of fish and white meat dishes.

Price: £9.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Lagrein Rosato 2007 Kellerei Kurtatsch Kurtatsch
Ref: 3950010

*£

Rosé wines made from the red Lagrein grape are traditionally called "Lagrein Kretzer" after a basket of plaited willow known as a "Kretz" used to hold grapes at harvest time. The colour of Lagrein Rosé wines from various producers varies from deep pink to an extremely pale ruby red. One of the earliest known wine-related documents from south Tyrol, dating from the early 16th century, at the time of the wars of peasants, refers to peasant leader Michael Gaismair forbidding his followers from drinking Lagrein Rosato to stop them brawling. In those days the naturally high acidity of the Lagrein grape would have produced a harsh unpalatable wine with excessive acid - nowadays malolactic fermentation transforms sharp malic acid into the softer lactic acid, meaning the wines are soft and gentle.

This example from Kellerei Kurtatsch ia a clear ruby red, with red fruit aromas. It is soft and on the palate, dry, with lots of fruit and a gentle mineral underpinning. Serve around 11-12°C on its own or with smoked fish or white meats such as pork or chicken. Also good with hams.

Price: £9.35 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Lagrein Rosato 2007 Kellerei Kurtatsch Kurtatsch

Lagrein 2007 Kellerei Kurtatsch Kurtatsch
Ref: 3950011

*£

The red Lagrein grape is the oldest of the South Tyrol, and the name suggests its origins lie in the Lagarina valley of Trentino. Outside the Alto Aldige region, the variety is rare to the point of obscurity, although some trial plantings have been made in Australia. The deep warm clay, sand, and gravel soils of the Bolzano area offer ideal conditions for its cultivation. Good vineyard husbandry, strict yield limits, barrel ageing, and care in the cellar enables the Lagrein grape, with its fleshy fruit, to make wines which are rich, dark red, and powerful, juicy, with intense but soft tannins.

This example has a garnet red colour, with powerful aromas of fruit and some spice, with good body and a generous finish. Serve at 16-17°C with red meat, game, poultry, and fine cheeses.

Price: £10.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Lagrein 2007 Kellerei Kurtatsch Kurtatsch

Weissburgunder 2007 Otmar Mair Bessererhof, Völs am Schlern
Ref: 3950005

*£

All peaches and cream on the nose, quite a big wine on the palate, with intense body - lots more peaches, apricot, and stone fruit flavours, and incredible length. Really good, and fantastic value.

Price: £10.30 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Weissburgunder 2007 Otmar Mair Bessererhof, Völs am Schlern

Chardonnay 2005 Otmar Mair Bessererhof, Völs am Schlern
Ref: 3950008

*£

A pale yellow, this wine has a nose with minerals, butterscotch, and rosepetals. Full-bodies on the palate, with lots of fruit, dry with good length. Would go well with white meats and all sorts of fish and seafood dishes.

Price: £10.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Chardonnay 2005 Otmar Mair Bessererhof, Völs am Schlern

Goldmuskateller 2007 Otmar Mair Bessererhof, Völs am Schlern
Ref: 3950006

*£

Goldmuskateller (Moscato Giallo in Italian) is a member of the Muscat family of grapes, thought to be closely related to Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. A clear pale yellow-gold, with a highly fragrant nose, with a palate of fresh grapey fruit, minerals, and rose petals galore. Muscat lovers will adore this wine.

Price: £12.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Goldmuskateller 2007 Otmar Mair Bessererhof, Völs am Schlern

Gewürztraminer 2007 Otmar Mair Bessererhof, Völs am Schlern
Ref: 3950007

*£

Classic spicy Gewürztraminer nose, with an intense body - probably the most intense of all the Gewürztraminer wines listed here - with a spiritous note. If you like flavoursome Gewürztraminer you will like this. Note the alcohol - 15% ABV.

Price: £13.40 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Gewürztraminer 2007 Otmar Mair Bessererhof, Völs am Schlern

Bernhard Pichler, Messnerhof Bolzano
The Messnerhof estate is located in the St. Peter suberb of Bolzano, and here Bernhard Pichler crafts a small range of wines from his 2.9 hectares of vines, which are located some 350m above sea level. The terrain consists of a porphyry moraine formed about 10,000 years ago during the last ice age, and has good permeability and a special ability to retain heat. It is also characterized by a high content of mineral salts, which gives the wines a characteristic mineral aroma and contributes to their longevity. Varieties grown include Lagrein, St. Magdalena, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and unusually for Alto Adige a small amount of Tempranillo.

Lagrein Riserva 2006 Bernhard Pichler Messnerhof, Bolzano
Ref: 3950009

This is the star wine in the Pichler range - a superb expression of the Lagrein grape - an intense purple, with a powerful body and a rich core of plum and liquorice flavours, soft tannins, good minerality, and some of the chocolate flavours that Lagrein is noted for whn grown in the immediate vicinity of Bolzano city.

Price: £20.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Armin Kobler Margreid

A very small-scale producer, with just 1.5 hectares of vines, and a tiny production of just 12000 bottles per year. From this small estate, Armin and his Wife Monika manage to produce high quality single vineyard wines from Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Grauer Burgunder, and Merlot. Until recently, the Koblers sold their grapes to the local co-operative, but they wanted to make their own wine and since 2006 they have vinified their grapes themselves. These are wines of great individuality and character, which I urge you to try.

Südtiroler Grauer Burgunder Klausner 2007 Armin Kobler Weinhof Kobler, Margreid
Ref: 3950015

**(*)£

The Klausner vineyard is flat, with sandy soils, and vines grown on simple Pergolas at a density of 3,300 vines per hectare. The average age of the vines is over 30 years. Fermentation and maturation take plece in stainless steel.

This Pinot Gris is the wine that made me decide to import from this estate. A very pale yellow-green, the nose is of rich ripe orchard fruit - apples and pears - reflected on the palate, where there is substantial body, good acidity, and excellent length. This really is a very lovely wine.

Price: £13.50 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Südtiroler Grauer Burgunder Klausner 2007 Armin Kobler Weinhof Kobler, Margreid

Südtiroler Gewürztraminer Feld 2007 Armin Kobler Weinhof Kobler, Margreid
Ref: 3950016

**£

The Feld vineyard is on a gentle slope with sandy loam soils. Here, young vines aged on average 5 years are grown at a density of 7,000 vines/hectare. The wine is vinified and matured in stainless steel.

I just love this wine. Classic soft Gewürztraminer, with a beautiful floral nose, packed with rose petals, and also spice and cloves. Medium bodied, dry, very flavoursome. An ideal companion for very lightly spiced Asian foods, smoked salmon, and white meats. Good length.

Price: £15.50 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Südtiroler Gewürztraminer Feld 2007 Armin Kobler Weinhof Kobler, Margreid

Gert Pomella, Weingut Milla Kurtatsch
One of the star properties in my Alto Adige list, Weingut Milla is a relatively new entrant to the wine scene, yet it has already established a formidable reputation for the quality of its 2 wines - Centa and Milla - both red Cabernet-Merlot blends - in a very short space of time, with top reviews and high scores from commentators such as Parker. The bulk of the grapes for these wines are grown in the 3 hectare Milla vineyard, which nestles on the edge of the valley floor below the village of Kurtatsch, which itself sits on a plateau overlooking the Etsch valley below. Most of Milla is at an altitude of about 230m above sea level, although parts of it, and some other small scattered holdings, are on steep slopes risng to altitudes between 350m and 450m. Despite being relatively small, Milla embraces a wide variety of different terrains and soil types, ranging from light chalky soils in flatter areas through to heavier clay soils on the slopes. Pomella uses no herbicides or artificial fertilizers, and operates some measures to stimulate the soil life in the vineyard. Both Milla and Centa are made using a broadly similar approach - the constituent varietals are made as individual wines, Merlot being the earliest ripening grape, normally harvested in late September, with Cabernet Franc in early October and Cabernet Sauvignon in mid October. Each wine is individually aged oak prior to blending, when storage in stainless takes over. The wine is further aged in bottle before release. The results from these classic Bordeaux grape varieties are nothing short of outstanding, and if Pomella's intention was to create Alto Adige's answer to fine red Bordeaux then I would argue that he has succeeded. Given that the two wines are so similar in terms of terroir and vinification, what are the differences between them? Essentially it's to do with grape selection, percentage of new wood, and maturation times - see the individual wine descriptions for details. Whilst making comparisons with Bordeaux estates, it's tempting to think of Milla as a "first" wine and Centa as a "second" wine - but in reality it's a little more complex than that. Bordeaux second wine selections tend to be made after the wine is made, according to qiality criteria, whereas Centa and Milla are different from the outset and the production processes are subtly different for each. Both are fabulous, but in different ways. Top tip - if you're ever in Alto Adige and need somewhere to stay, Pomella and his brother also run the stunning Schwarz Adler Turmhotel in the heart of the delightful village of Kurtatsch - this small intimate hotel is a truly exceptional place to stay and well worth seeking out for the pampering one receives, the pool, the fantastic restaurants (2 of them) and comfortable quality accomodation with fabulous views - and of course the wine!

Centa 2005 Gert Pomella Weingut Milla, Kurtatsch
Ref: 3950000

**(*)££

"Centa" is a Cabernet-Merlot blend comprises 40% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 40% Merlot. The grapes used are on average younger than those in the other Pomella wine, Milla, and the production process is subtly different - apart from the difference in variety proportions, the barrel-maturation is a bit shorter and is in used oak.

Centa is a woman's name, like Milla, the other Pomella wine. During Roman times a military road ran through the site of Pomella's vineyards, and the origins of the name are believed to be associated with this.

The grapes for Centa are grown on a south-easterly facing slope on clay and limestone soils. The wine is aged 24 months in oak barrels of varying ages prior to blending, when storage in stainless takes over. The bottling finally takes place about 35 months after harvest, and then the wine is aged in bottle a further 12 months before release.

A dark garnet with expressive aromas of cherries and dark fruit. The palate is juicy and dense, packed with super-ripe dark fruit with well integrated oak. Huge length. A powerful wine which is only now getting into its stride - already drinking nicely but with anticipated maturity 2010-2017. Parker gave 91 points to the 2004 vintage of Centa and has yet to rate the 2005.

Serving temperature: 18-20°C; drink with grilled meats and pasta dishes. ABV 14%.

Price: £17.80 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Centa 2005 Gert Pomella Weingut Milla, Kurtatsch

Milla 2004 Gert Pomella Weingut Milla, Kurtatsch
Ref: 3950001

***£

Milla is the premium wine from Gert Pomella's Weingut Milla. It's a Merlot-rich Cabernet-Merlot blend, with 55% Merlot, with 35% Cabernet Franc (French Pomerol clones), and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It's made from a selection of the best grapes, principally from older vines and new barrels are used for maturation which lasts 36 months, followed by a further year in bottle. The name Milla originates from antiquity, and is a woman's name.

It's a truly stunning wine, and was the wine which inspired me to add a small range from Alto Adige. A deep pastel red, it has a classic Bordeaux nose, with some pencilbox and cedarwood on the nose, but also ample savoury spice, and a restrained gaminess. On the palate it explodes in the mouth with its' powerful core of lush juicy dark and sweet red berry fruits, huge body, masses of that savoury spice reflected from the nose, and silky tannins. It's a lavish warming wine, with huge depth of flavour, and a long, long finish which goes on forever. Truly stunning, one of the best wines (from anywhere) in my list.

Drink with game or red meats, ideally in strongly flavoured sauces. Cellared well, this will keep at least 10 years, probably much more.

Parker - 90 points.

Price: £25.45 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Milla 2004 Gert Pomella Weingut Milla, Kurtatsch

Peter Dipoli Egna

A top producer with a small range of exquisite wines, widely admired and regularly receiving industry accolades for his products. The Peter Dipoli estate was born in 1987 when the Dipoli family bought 1.2 hectares of vines in Penon, a hamlet near the village of Kurtatsch. The vineyard was completely replanted with Sauvignon Blanc and in 1990, the first 1637 bottles of Voglar were produced. In the following years, the estate was enlarged, with the addition of the Iugum vineyard in nearby Magré, and the purchase of an ancient rural property in Villa, near Egna, that in 1998 was restored and became the estate winery. Peter's background had been in farming, and he had studied viticulture at the San Michele all’Adige High School, and worked for 5 years at the research station of Laimburg, before going back to his father’s property with the aim of creating his own vineyard estate. Today, he is very active in the promotion of wines from Alto Adige, and is the Vice-President of the Freie Weinbauern Südtirol - the Committee of Free Winegrowers South Tyrol. He summarises his philosophy about wine thus:-

"Some years ago I put my lifelong passion for wine into practice by becoming a wine producer. I wanted to make wines that would reflect my ideas about which grape varieties to use, and about the most correct and respectful ways of turning them into wine. I believe that each grape variety should be planted in the environment that best suits it. The producer’s job is to transform the grapes – as naturally as they arrive from the vineyards – into wines that express the characteristics of soil, habitat and growing season these grapes are a fruit of. A respect for these factors precludes all predetermined styles of wine, too often produced following momentary fashions. I am happy when consumers understand a wine to be the result of specific growing conditions, with whatever natural variabilities these may entail. Only then can they appreciate a great wine as being a unique and true expression of a grape, its territory and its producer".

Sauvignon Blanc "Voglar" 2007 Peter Dipoli Egna, Südtirol
Ref: 3950002

Parker rates the 2007 vintage in Alto Adige highly for many whites. He also rates Peter Dipoli very highly, and his Wine Advocate says of his 2006 Sauvignon (to whjch he gave 92 points):-

".......The 2006 Sauvignon Voglar is gorgeous. This is one of the few Italian Sauvignons that reconciles varietally true aromatics with ripe but beautifully balanced fruit. Notes of ripe pears, peaches, apricots, minerals, flowers, and spices all make an appearance as this superb white opens in the glass."

My own note for the 2007...

This wine has a light golden yellow colour, with a nose of spice and minerals, very rich and lush. The palate is powerful, creamy and tropical, with peach and apricot dominating, underpinned by a soft minerality. Nice finish, with good length, minerals and tropicals again. Reallly nice, a good food wine.

It wasn't worth buying the 2006, as there was so little available, so I bought the 2007, of which there is better availability, and which Dipoli himself rates as a better wine than the 2006.

In stock now.

Price: £19.75 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Merlot "Fihl" 2004 Peter Dipoli Egna, Südtirol
Ref: 3950003

"Fihl" is the ancient name of VILLA, a hamlet located North of Egna, where Dipoli's winery is located. The tiny (0.4 hectare) Merlot vineyard is located on a gentle west facing slope in Gries; an old flood plain, the soil types are principally sand and silt. Vine density is 6,000 vines per hectare, and vines are trained using a simple Guyot system. In some years Fihl is 100% Merlot, in others not. Before bottling, the Merlot from the Gries vineyard is usually blended with a small percentage of Iugum (Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - see next wine down the page). In an exceptional vintage like 2002 however, Fihl is bottled by itself and not blended at all.
Harvest is from from mid September. The grapes are destemmed and fermented in stainless steel open vats for about 10 days with punch downs twice a day. The wine is then racked in stainless steel vats where malolactic fermentation occurs. When the malo is over the wine is aged in barriques 20% new and 80% of 3-5th run. After 12 months the wine is bottled and released after 14 months. Production is just 3-5000 bottles in a typical year.

A deep red with soft fruity nose, the wine is full-bodies but very soft on the palate, with plumskin and dark cooked fruit flavours. Huge length. A lovely wine.

In stock now. Really tiny allocation.

Price: £18.60 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

Cabernet-Merlot "Iugum" 2004 Peter Dipoli Egna, Südtirol
Ref: 3950004

***

IUGUM (iou-gum) is a made up name. It means"yoke" in Latin - the wooden piece which hitched oxen into pairs, but the word is also used in very early agricultural texts in reference to tines being trained on a support. This tiny (1.1 hectare) south/south-easterly facing vineyard parcel is located on the slopes of the Magré hills (one of the warmest vineyard areas of Alto Adige) at an altitude of about 300m above sea level, on clay & silt soils The warm temperature and the soil structure with a high clay content determined the selection of Bordeaux varieties (70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon). which are grown using a simple Guyot system, at a density of 7000 plants/hectare. Dipoli's objective was to produce a great red wine which could be barrel aged and withstand long bottle ageing. The Merlot is harvested from mid September, Cabernet Sauvignon from mid October. Each grape variety is vinified by itself. Grapes are destemmed leaving the berries uncrushed, and fermentation occurs in open wooden vats (40 hl capacity) and lasts 10 days approximately with punch downs twice a day. Both Merlot and Cabenet Sauvignon undergo malolactic fermentation in new barriques. Cabernet Sauvignon is aged for 12 months in new barriques. For Merlot second and third run barriques are used. 12 months after the harvest the wines are blended to make IUGUM. After 60 days ageing in stainsteel vats Iugum is bottled. It is then released after 24 months ageing in bottle, that is 4 years after the harvest. Yearly production is just 6,500 bottles.

Iugum, like Pomella's Milla and Centa, is very much a wine in the mould of a fine Bordeaux, but in the case of Iugum I would be more specific and liken it to a good Pauillac, with it's robe of deep granite red, and powerful aromas of cedarwood, pencilbox, and leather. The palate too is powerful, all blackcurrants and spice, deep, rich, and full-bodied and a finish that goes on and on.... Seriously fine wine.

In stock now. Really tiny allocation.

Price: £30.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity: