Nick Dobson Wines Weinviertel

Weinviertel The Weinviertel, or "Wine-Quarter" is a large region to the north of Vienna, extending as far as the border with the Czech republic. It's an oddball region in that, although it is Austria's largest wine region, it doesn't really seem like wine country as you travel around it. It's not a vinous monoculture as are some of the other regions; vines are scattered amongst other crops, and are often nowhere to be seen. They thrive in those parts of the region where conditions are favourable, which is far from everywhere. You can often drive for miles without seeing a vine. It's a relatively flat region, with undulating hills rather than anything more dramatic. Wines are principally white, with Grüner Veltliner dominating, but many varieties are grown, and production of really good quality reds is on the increase. Despite being the largest Austrian wine producing region, it's been a bit of a backwater, with the result that it's a good place to get value for money. It's a fascinating region architecturally, with mediaeval gems of towns such as Retz, with its's stunning renaissance and baroque centre, and miles of underground wine cellars, which can be visited. In 2003, Weinviertel was the first region to adopt a new classification system - "Weinviertel DAC" - where DAC stands for "Districtus Austriae Controllatus". This is a bit like the French AOC system, and DAC is now being adopted in other Austrian regions.

Weingut Familie Zull

The Zull family vineyard is located in Schrattenthal, which is the smallest winemaking community in Austria. Early records indicate wine was made here as early as 1220, and by the middle ages, the microclimate around Schrattenthal was already well known as being ideal for growing grapes; dry and hot summer days, with cooler nights during the ripening period gives the wines power and elegance. The adjacent Manhartsberg protects the gentle hills from cold winds. The Zull family produces an excellent range of red and white wines on several sites totalling 17 hectares, each with it's own individual character. Soils vary; Rieslings are grown on thin soil over mineral bedrock, and are strongly mineral in character; Grüner Veltliner and the red grapes are grown on sand and Löss, and elsewhere clay loam soils are found in the vineyards used for Chardonnay.

Grüner Veltliner 2007 Lust und Laune Weingut Familie Zull Schrattenthal
Ref: 4380006

"Lust und Laune" translates loosely as "Joy and Fun" and this sums up this wine very well. It's a fresh zesty GV - very pale green, with fruit, spice and minerals on the nose. On the palate it's light, fresh, and zesty, with a creamy texture and good acidity. Good length. Good with all sorts of fish & seafood dishes and white meats. 11% ABV, 5g/litre residual sugar. Drink chilled at 10-11 dec C.

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Price: £10.80 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Grüner Veltliner 2007 Weinviertel DAC Weingut Familie Zull Schrattenthal
Ref: 4380007

This wine is made from grapes grown on 3 seperate sites around Schrattenthal, mainly on sandy clay soils. It's a light golden yellow, with a nose of spice and minerals; on the palate it's quite full, powerful, with spice, fruit, and a creamy texture.

4-star Highly Recommended in Decanter Magazine's June '09 review of 2007 GVs from all over Austria.

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Price: £13.20 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Grüner Veltliner 2010 Weinviertel DAC "Mitanaund" Elisabeth Hausgnost, Guntersdorf
Ref: 4380044

A very pale golden yellow, almost water-white. Classic GV nose, with creamy minerality, a hint of cracked white pepper- but perhaps less than is typical for GV - and some green cress, On the palate an up-front creamy texture, again with pronounced minerality, some pepper, taut green flavours, green-tea notes, and good concentration of primary fruit balanced by a crisp green apple and citrus acidity and just the slightest hint of spritz. Quite expressive in the mid-palate, with decent length, and a hint of green herbs on the finish.This wine was selected by Oz Clarke for inclusion in the 2012 edition of his "250 Best Wines" guide - weighing in at number 55 out of 250, where the following description appears:-

"A lady called Elisabeth Hausgnost makes this. She calls her business Wein und Genuss, ‘wine and fun’, which makes me think I should look her up next time I’m in Vienna. This isn’t a typical peppery Grüner Veltliner: it has a hint of spritz, good juicy green apple flesh squirted with lemon and then, wow, a touch of papaya, some ogen melon, is that wisteria? Intriguing. And, don’t tell me, strudel pastry softness. I need to arrange a visit."

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Price: £11.50 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Riesling 2007 Innere Bergen Weingut Familie Zull Schrattenthal
Ref: 4380008

This Riesling is a single vineyard wine, from a south-facing site on an outcrop of urgestein soils. It's a pale yellow, with a nose of fragrant of flowers and ripe stone fruit, and a hint of smoke. On the palate it is juicy, with yellow stone fruit and minerals, a creamy texture and lively acidity. Needs a few minutes in the glass to open up; long powerful finish.

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Price: £17.40 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Blauer Portugieser 2008 Lust und Laune Weingut Familie Zull Schrattenthal
Ref: 4380023

A classic Blauer Portugieser from Zull; nice depth of colour, with creamy fruit and some spice on the nose, good body, dry, soft, and fruity with soft gentle tannins and good length. Good value for money.

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Price: £12.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Schrattenthal 9 2006 Weingut Familie Zull Schrattenthal
Ref: 4380010

Zull's top red wine, and one which Phillip Zull says is modelled on red Bordeaux. It's made from the very best grapes from the pick of Zull's Schrattenthal sites, and is a blend of Zweigelt (70%), Merlot (20%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). The grapes were hand -picked at the end of October 2006, and underwent 30 days maceration followed by 14 months in oak. ABV 13.5%, acidity 5.5g/litre, residual sugar 2g/litre.

This is a big wine to be sure; a powerful nose of dark berry fruit, spice, and tobacco; on the palate complex, packed with lots of juicy dark berry fruit. Very round and harmonius, with robust tannins. Huge length. A good match for game and strongly flavoured meat dishes; deer, beef fillet, roasted shoulder of lamb, or duck breast.

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Price: £21.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Welschriesling 2007 Weingut Breitenfelder Kleinriedenthal, Retz
Ref: 4380011

A light zesty and very fruity wine, with green apple and citrus aromas and flavours. Classic Welschriedling; serve chilled 8-10 deg C. A fantastic summer wine.

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Price: £9.60 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Chardonnay 2008 Weingut Breitenfelder Kleinriedenthal, Retz
Ref: 4380025

TN in preparation.

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Price: £13.20 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Weingut Breitenfelder, Kleinriedenthal, Retz
Ref: 4380035

Pure varietal fruit character with typical with elder flowers and citrus. Balanced, juicy and alively wine which goes well with fish, salads, and white meat dishes. Drink well chilled - fantastic summer wine.

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Price: £11.40 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Riedenthal Reserve 2007 Weingut Breitenfelder Kleinriedenthal, Retz
Ref: 4380019

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zweigelt. Barrel-aged for 12 months. Ripe fruit with subtle toasty aromas and dark berry flavours; dense and compact with fine tannins. Good length. Ideal with game & dark meat dishes, stews.

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Price: £16.80 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Gelber Muskateller 2008 Weinbau Urban Wullersdorf
Ref: 4380024

A delightfully fresh fruity Muskateller from Andreas Urban in Wullersdorf. Grapey, floral, aromatic - everything a fresh Muskateller should be. Brilliant summer wine.

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Price: £12.60 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Grüner Veltliner Premium 2007 Weinbau Urban Wullersdorf
Ref: 4380014

This is a splendid Grüner Veltliner, which very definitely ticks all the right boxes. It's a very pale golden yellow, with a powerful nose of spice and minerals. It explodes in the mouth, gushing with masses of fruit, pepper, and those minerals again, with good acidity; it's lively and zesty, with a superb long finish. Really good stuff, would work very well with pork, schnitzel, or flavoursome fish dishes in a creamy sauce. A real success, and a credit to it's maker. This wine was awarded a prize in the "Salon of best Austrian Wines" competition - to achieve this it has to pass three rounds of blind tastings by seasoned professionals.

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Price: £12.60 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Neuburger 2007 Halblehen Weingut Hofbauer
Ref: 4380013

**(*)

Everything Neuburger shouldn't be! Neuburger is a grape with relatively low acidity, and poorer examples can seem rather flat and flabby. Not this one - possibly the best everyday Neuburger I've tasted - it has an aromatic nose, floral, with rose petals and some minerals, and on the palate a real buzz - there's a lot going on in this wine - it's very full-bodied, with tropical flavours, and a real liveliness and bite, good acidity, and a little spritz, followed with minerals, hazlenuts, and a hint of honey on the long finish. This is a serious wine at an everyday wine price, very pleasant indeed, good on its own or with food - try it with freshwater fish, schnitzel, or white meats - it partners well with pork chops.

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Price: £12.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Neuburger 2007 Halblehen Weingut Hofbauer

Neuburger 2009 Halblehen Weingut Hofbauer
Ref: 4380039

**(*)

Traminer 2009 Sandgrube Weingut Hofbauer
Ref: 4380038

TN in preparation

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Price: £13.20 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Eiswein 2006 37.5cl Grüner Veltliner Weingut Diem Obermarksdorf, Weinviertel
Ref: 4380020

A pale golden yellow, with a nose of citrus and honey with some mineral layers. Rich on the palate, with sharply defined sweet fruit flavours, clear GV character, with white citrus fruit, some white pepper, and minerals. Huge length.

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Price: £24.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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