Nick Dobson Wines Morgon

Morgon The second largest Cru after Brouilly, the Morgon appellation lies within the commune of Villié-Morgon and covers quite a large area. Classic Morgon is highly individual in nature, and arguably quite different to the other Crus, often high in alcohol, with wild cherry, kirsch, apricot and gooseberry flavours and a sensational bouquet. The soil is primarily granitic, but one particular feature here is the famed roche pourrie - or "rotted rock" - a layer of disintegrating underlying schistous rock, containing iron oxide and trace elements including of particular significance managanese, which help to contribute to the particular characteristics of Morgon wines. The sector between the villages of Villié-Morgon and Bas-Morgon contains the famed Mont-du-Py, from where come the very best Morgon wines. These have such an individual bouquet that the French have invented a word to describe it - morgonner. Morgon is not a wine to be drunk young; in the first year after the vintage, the bouquet will not have developed as much as with some of the other Crus, and the wines can seem to lack the initial fruitiness so characteristic of Beaujolais, and remain rather closed, but after a year or two in bottle the real nature of Morgon shows itself - rich, fleshy wines, generously structured and with that fantastic bouquet. Morgon ages particularly well, some wines showing fine exotic flavours at five years, with the capacity to age for ten. The best wines come from the six climats of Côte du Py, Corcelette, Les Charmes, Les Micouds, Douby, and Les Grands Cras - however some of the wines made come from a combination of these sites. Drink with a fine *coq au vin*.

Morgon 2007 Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332106

This Morgon from Fernand Gravallon is a dark red/purple, with aromas of violets and minerals, mirrored on the palate, which has good body. Excellent ageing potential, and good with food. Very drinkable now, but may be cellared for some years to come. Most vines in the vineyards where this originates are over 45 years old. Excellent with cheeses and game. Drink around 14-15 deg. C.

Price: £10.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

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Morgon 2006 Corcelette Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332107

TN in preparation.

Price: £12.30 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

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Morgon 2007 Les Aiguais Domaine du Point du Jour Jocelyne Depardon
Ref: 3332112

A big gutsy fruit-packed Morgon from Jocelyne Depardon - deep granite red, with minerals and cooked red fruit on the nose, and a palate dominated by jammy cooked red and black fruit, this has excellent body, smooth tannins, and very good length. Will keep several years. More of a food wine.

Price: £12.20 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

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Morgon 2009 Les Aiguais Domaine du Point du Jour Jocelyne Depardon
Ref: 3332143

The superb 2009 vintage of Jocelyne Depardon's Morton - available 23 June 2010. TN to follow.

Price: £12.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

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Morgon 2006 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332108

80 year-old vines, with very low yields, produce wines with great concentration of flavours and aromas, with an incredible roundness. The wine spends a year in large oak foudres (30 to 75 hectolitre casks). The bouquet intensifies as the wine matures. Best with at least a year in bottle, so some patience is required. Drink with red meats with rich sauces, or fine cheeses.

Price: £14.25 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

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Morgon 2006 Côte du Py Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332109

This wine is possibly Fernand Gravallon's finest achievement to date; made in only small quantities, we have only a tiny allocation. A deep ruby red, with a powerful vinous earthy and gamey nose. On the palate it is velvety, smooth, and of immense concentration. The finish goes on forever, with dry, soft tannins, and powerful gamey flavours tinged with smoke. Wonderful stuff, enjoy it with full-flavoured food - game or red meats in rich sauces.

Available now, limited stock.

Price: £17.00 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

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L'Instant Plaisir Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332145

*(*)

This is an extremely unusual wine from the Beaujolais; a spakling wine made from the Gamay grape, which is quite delightful. You don't see a lot of sparkling wine from these parts, and when you do see such wines, they are normally made from Chardonnay originating from the southern part of the region where there is a greater incidence of chalky soils. Sparkling Gamay is indeed a rarity, and you are in for a real treat. This particular example comes from vineyards in the commune of St Jean d'Ardières, to the south of Villié-Morgon on the road to Belleville sur Saône. Technically the wine is "vin mousseux", made using the traditional Champagne method. Whilst the vineyard is in AOC Beaujolais, the producer is not allowed to state this on the label, because the wine is specifically designed to only have 8% alcohol by volume, too low to be classified as Beaulolais AOC and hence legally it's just a humble vin de table. No vintage is declared on the label but the grapes are from 2009. It was a bit of a problem knowing which section to put it in, but in the end I put the main listing in the Morgon section because that's where the producer is based and that's what their real speciality is.

It's a lovely, lovely wine; it has very pale green/pink tinges, with a nose of apples and pears and strawberries, all reflected on the palate along with a fine mousse. There is loads of fruit, and good balancing acidity. This is the perfect summer sparkler; drink well chilled on its own or with fish, white meats, salads, grills etc. And the low alcohol helps at lunchtime!

I have a TINY allocation of this wine so I have to impose a limit of 3 bottles per customer. I was a bit late to the party ordering this wine this year, and there wasn't a lot left, as it has sold like hotcakes in France - and they don't make much anyway. This is the first year of production - it was made as a bit of an experiment, but has exceeded expectations both in terms of the quality and demand - the wine has been so well received on the domestic market that production will surely increase somewhat in future, and I'm told I can have more next year.

Price: £12.95 (Including VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:

L'Instant Plaisir Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière