Nick Dobson Wines Morgon

Morgon The second largest Cru after Brouilly, the Morgon appellation lies within the commune of Villié-Morgon and covers quite a large area. Classic Morgon is highly individual in nature, and arguably quite different to the other Crus, often high in alcohol, with wild cherry, kirsch, apricot and gooseberry flavours and a sensational bouquet. The soil is primarily granitic, but one particular feature here is the famed roche pourrie - or "rotted rock" - a layer of disintegrating underlying schistous rock, containing iron oxide and trace elements including of particular significance managanese, which help to contribute to the particular characteristics of Morgon wines. The sector between the villages of Villié-Morgon and Bas-Morgon contains the famed Mont-du-Py, from where come the very best Morgon wines. These have such an individual bouquet that the French have invented a word to describe it - morgonner. Morgon is not a wine to be drunk young; in the first year after the vintage, the bouquet will not have developed as much as with some of the other Crus, and the wines can seem to lack the initial fruitiness so characteristic of Beaujolais, and remain rather closed, but after a year or two in bottle the real nature of Morgon shows itself - rich, fleshy wines, generously structured and with that fantastic bouquet. Morgon ages particularly well, some wines showing fine exotic flavours at five years, with the capacity to age for ten. The best wines come from the six climats of Côte du Py, Corcelette, Les Charmes, Les Micouds, Douby, and Les Grands Cras - however some of the wines made come from a combination of these sites. Drink with a fine *coq au vin*.

Morgon Corcelette 2007 Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332106

Corcelette is one of the climats, or sub-zones, of the Morgon appellation. Here, vines grow on soils of clay and sand created from the decomposition of granite. This sand is locally called "roche pourrie", or "rotten earth". Most vines in the vineyards where this originates are over 45 years old.

This Morgon from Fernand Gravallon is a dark red/purple, with aromas of violets, Kirsch, and minerals, mirrored on the palate, which has good body. Excellent ageing potential, and good with food. Drinking well now, but may be cellared for some years to come. Excellent with cheeses and game. Drink around 14-15 deg. C.

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Price: £12.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Morgon Cuvée Prémium 2009 Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332163

A rebranding exercise at this Domaine has seen the names of a handful of wines change. This classic Morgon from the Corcelette climat, or sub-zone, is one, now called "Cuvée Prémium". The wines however are unchanged and are just as good as ever. Here, vines grow on soils of clay and sand created from the decomposition of granite. This sand is locally called "roche pourrie", or "rotten rock". Most vines in the vineyards where this originates are over 45 years old.

This Morgon from Fernand Gravallon is a dark red/purple, with aromas of violets, Kirsch, and minerals, mirrored on the palate, which is fruit-forward and has good body. Excellent ageing potential, and good with cheeses and game. Drink around 14-15 deg. C. It's very young, and whilst approachable already, being from the stellar 2009 vintage, but it really requires some time in bottle to show at its best. This is the one to go for if you want to lay a few bottles down - for immediate drinking go for the 2006 or 2007.

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Price: £12.60 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Morgon 2009 Les Aiguais Domaine du Point du Jour Jocelyne Depardon
Ref: 3332143

The superb 2009 vintage of Jocelyne Depardon's Morgon. TN to follow.

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Price: £13.20 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Morgon 2009 Cuvée Expression (Vieilles Vignes) Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332164

*(*)

Another wine with a new name for 2009 - this is exactly the same wine as was previously known as Gravallon's Morgon Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - made from grapes grown on 80 year-old vines, with very low yields, producing wines with great concentration of flavours and aromas, with an incredible roundness. The wine spends a year in large oak foudres (30 to 75 hectolitre casks). The bouquet intensifies as the wine matures, and this wine really is best appreciated after some time in bottle, so a bit of patience is required. For immediate drinking go for the 2006 - the 2009 should be cellared a while yet. Drink with red meats with rich sauces, or fine cheeses.

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Price: £14.70 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Morgon 2009 Cuvée Expression (Vieilles Vignes) Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière

Morgon 2009 Côte du Py Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332165

**(*)

This wine is possibly this estate's finest achievement to date. It comes from the "Côte du Py" - the most famous Morgon climat, or sub-zone located south of the village of "Côte du Py" just south of the village of Villié-Morgon, and just above the hamlet of Haut Morgon, and encompassing the land around a hill rising to 358 meters, where the soil is composed of "roche pourrie" or "rotten rock". The wines produced here are rich and powerful - much more so than from other Morgon climats - and have exceptional keeping qualities compared to much Beaujolais - 20 years is not unknown for some wine, though only 12 years is claimed for this wine, which is made in only small quantities, and is aged for 6 months in small oak barrels of 215 litres. A deep ruby red, with a powerful vinous earthy and gamey nose. On the palate it is velvety, smooth, and of immense concentration. The finish goes on forever, with dry, soft tannins, and powerful gamey flavours tinged with smoke. Wonderful stuff, enjoy it with full-flavoured food - game or red meats in rich sauces, or fine but strong cheeses. We only have a small allocation of this.

Vintage choice - this wine will improve with bottle age (it was only bottled in February 2011) and whilst already approachable it will not show at its best for some time. To drink now go for the 2006 - the 2009 is the choice for laying down - although our stock of the 2006 is now pitifully small..

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Price: £19.20 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Morgon 2009 Côte du Py Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière

L'Instant Plaisir Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière
Ref: 3332145

*(*)

This is an extremely unusual wine from the Beaujolais; a spakling wine made from the Gamay grape, which is quite delightful. You don't see a lot of sparkling wine from these parts, and when you do see such wines, they are normally made from Chardonnay originating from the southern part of the region where there is a greater incidence of chalky soils. Sparkling Gamay is indeed a rarity, and you are in for a real treat. This particular example comes from vineyards in the commune of St Jean d'Ardières, to the south of Villié-Morgon on the road to Belleville sur Saône. Technically the wine is "vin mousseux", made using the traditional Champagne method. Whilst the vineyard is in AOC Beaujolais, the producer is not allowed to state this on the label, because the wine is specifically designed to only have 8% alcohol by volume, too low to be classified as Beaulolais AOC and hence legally it's just a humble vin de table. No vintage is declared on the label but the grapes are from 2009. It was a bit of a problem knowing which section to put it in, but in the end I put the main listing in the Morgon section because that's where the producer is based and that's what their real speciality is.

It's a lovely, lovely wine; it has very pale green/pink tinges, with a nose of apples and pears and strawberries, all reflected on the palate along with a fine mousse. There is loads of fruit, and good balancing acidity. This is the perfect summer sparkler; drink well chilled on its own or with fish, white meats, salads, grills etc. And the low alcohol helps at lunchtime!

I have a TINY allocation of this wine so I have to impose a limit of 3 bottles per customer. I was a bit late to the party ordering this wine this year, and there wasn't a lot left, as it has sold like hotcakes in France - and they don't make much anyway. This is the first year of production - it was made as a bit of an experiment, but has exceeded expectations both in terms of the quality and demand - the wine has been so well received on the domestic market that production will surely increase somewhat in future, and I'm told I can have more next year.

In stock - normally despatched within one working day.

Price: £13.50 (Including VAT at 20%)

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L'Instant Plaisir Domaine Fernand Gravallon & Cédric Lathuilière