Nick Dobson Wines Geneva Region

Geneva District The Geneva region, at the western end of Lake Geneva adjacent to the French border, produces a wide range of different grape types and wines, whose styles vary considerably throughout the Canton, given the variety of soil types. Broadly speaking, they are at their most full-bodied and strongest in the Mandement district to the west of the city, becoming softer and lighter moving anticlockwise around the end of the lake. Geneva whites include wines made from the principal indigenous white grape, the Chasselas, but include also international varieties such as Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier (which seems to excel here), and Chardonnay. Many better Swiss reds come from the Geneva area; good Swiss Gamays are not unlike some Beaujolais - aromatic, full-bodied, smooth, with a little spiciness. Good examples of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon are also found, along with heavier wines from exciting Swiss varieties such as Gamaret and Garanoir, and international varieties Syrah and Zinfandel. There are also some truly excellent blends, both red and white, which are well worth trying. Geneva wines are, by Swiss standards, good value, as the flatter land allows mechanisation of some tasks which havwe to be performed manually elsewhere in Switzerland, where the terrain is steeper.

René Desbaillets, Domaine des Abeilles d'Or, Chouilly/Genève

Originally from the small hamlet of "Les Baillets" in the heart of the Geneva winegrowing district, the Desbaillets family is mentioned in local archives going back over 500 years. Domaine des Abeilles d'Or has developed a fine reputation, and is run today by current generation René Desbaillets. The estate has some 34 hectares of vines in the village of Chouilly, which is in the Satigny district - today the largest winegrowing district in Switzerland. Vines grow here at an altitude of between 450 and 500 meters, on clay loam soils over porous sandstone bedrock. Réné, ably assisted by his winemaker son Larent (recent graduate of the winemaking school at Changins) makes a wide range of red, rosé, white, and sparkling wines here. Of particular note is the estate's Douce Noire, an oaked red blend of international and Swiss varieties, which regularly sweeps the board in competitions.

A heraldic note - on the family crest (see right) the blue represents the sky, Justice and Beauty, the Golden bees symbolize wealth and nobility. The striped band represents virtue, ardour, love and courage. Nothing could better describe the wonderful landscape of hills around Chouilly, and the great wines and character of the producer!

Chasselas de Satigny 2009 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100077

This wine is a very pale yellow, with great purity of colour; a very clean-looking wine. It has aromas of peardrops and lime, echoed on the palate along with a hint of smoke and a smooth minerality. Serve chilled - makes a good apéritif, or drink with fish, seafood, chicken. Also good with asparagus dishes.

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Price: £12.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Pinot Blanc de Chouilly 2007 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100065

This wine is a very pale yellow, with great purity of colour; a very clean-looking wine. It has aromas of peardrops and honey, echoed on the palate along with a hint of smoke and a smooth minerality. Serve chilled around 8-9 deg C - makes a good apéritif, or drink with fish, seafood, chicken. Particularly good with salmon and asparagus dishes.

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Price: £15.90 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Chardonnay de Genève 2009 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100083

A pale golden yellow with complex aromas of exotic fruits - mango and pineapple. Lively, rich, and fruity on the palate, well balanced, both powerful and elegant. Drink chilled to around 8-9 deg C. The perfect accompaniment to fish and seafood dishes, terrines, salmon, and caviar.

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Price: £16.80 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Viognier de Genève 2009 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100078

Viognier is a grape that seems to do particularly well in the area around Geneva. I am aware of a number of excellent examples, including this one. It's a lively wine, with aromas of apricot, peach, violet and rosepetals on the nose, with good attack, and superbly balanced fruit and acidity. Serve at 8°-10°C, either as an apéritif, or with seafood or white meat dishes. Keeps 4+ years if cellared correctly.

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Price: £20.40 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Rosé de Gamay de Satigny 2009 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100080

*(*)

A pale pink with fine fruity aromas of fraise des bois and raspberries. Fresh and fruity on the palate, this is the ideal summer wine. Drink chilled to 8-9 deg C with salads, grilled meats, barbeques etc.

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Price: £12.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Rosé de Gamay de Satigny 2009 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva

Gamay de Chouilly Vieilles Vignes 2009 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100079

Classic Geneva Gamay from this top producer - made from a small parcel of older vines in the village of Chouilly. A deep ruby red, with aromas of prunes and spice. On the palate rich and concentrated, earthy and gamey, with plenty of dark fruit and some spice. Good match for a wide range of foods, but especially good with gammons, hams, and white meats. Needs a year in bottle; drink now-2015+. Serve 13-14 deg C.

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Price: £15.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Gamaret AOC 2008 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100084

TN in preparation.

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Price: £24.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Douce Noire 2008 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100082

**(*)

A fabulous dark red, highly aromatic, with exceptional structure and length, "Douce Noire" is a big wine. Confusingly, it is not made from the Dolcetto grape (also known as "Douce Noir" in neighbouring Savoie in France), but is in fact a blend made from 5 other red grape varieties. Gamaret provides a hint of liquorice; Garanoir and Pinot Noir give the perfume of ripe red fruits; Cabernet Sauvignon gives backbone and structure, whilst Merlot contributes silky tannins. The resulting wine is aged in oak barrels, adding a creamy vanilla edge. The overall result is truly exceptional, and one of the highlights in my range of Swiss wines. This wine has regularly received excellent reviews in the Guide Hachette, and frequently wins prizes in Swiss competitions. It will age well and is packaged in a beautiful tall slender bottle, which (thankfully) just fits in our packing cases! Keeps 10+ years. Drink around 17-18 deg. C with red meats, game, and robust cheeses.

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Price: £27.60 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Douce Noire 2008 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva

Baron Auriol Grand Vin Mousseux Blanc de Blancs 2008 Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100081

A dry sparkling wine made from Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc using the Methode Traditionelle production technique as used in Champagne. Subtle nose of quince, elderflower. Fine mousse with exotic fruit flavoiurs and a long finish. Serve chilled at 8°-9° C. Keeps 5+ years. An excellent wine made by a very good maker.

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Price: £25.50 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Douceur d'Automne 2008 Vin Doux Naturel AOC Genève 75cl Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva
Ref: 4100085

*(*)

A dessert wine made from Semillon and Sauvignon using cryo-extraction - where the grapes are artificially frozen to -7°C and then pressed. This is, in effect, a simulated Eiswein. The wine is a pale yellow to yellow-orange and has soft aromas of citrus on the nose, and lively yet gentle sweet fruit on the palate, undepinned by a soft minerality. Serve around 8°C - goes wonderfully with foie gras, Roquefort cheese and chocolate desserts. Keeps to to 10 years if cellared correctly.

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Price: £33.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Douceur d'Automne 2008 Vin Doux Naturel AOC Genève 75cl Domaine des Abeilles d'Or Chouilly, Geneva

Roger Burgdorfer, Domaine du Paradis, Satigny

Didier Cornut (left) and Roger Burgdorfer

I first came across Domaine du Paradis many years ago, when in my pre-wine trade days on a business trip to Geneva I sought the advice of a local wine merchant on a decent bottle of local red to bring home - this was in the days when you could carry wine on planes - and was sold a bottle of the Domaine's Pont des Soupirs rouge, which was exquisite. Imagine my surprise, when next in Geneva, and invited to a wine-loving colleague's flat for dinner, when he opened another bottle of the same wine! One of the most fascinating producers in the Geneva region, the Domaine has 40 hectares of vines on sloping hills near the village of Satigny. The estate is owned by Roger and Rosette Burgdorfer, who look after the vineyards, whilst oenologue Didier Cornut, who has worked with the Burgdorfers since 1991, is in charge of winemaking. The estate philosophy is to limit the use of chemicals in both the farming and winemaking. Roger and Didier share a wacky sense of humour, evidenced by their tasting room and wine labels, which are adorned with countless devils and angels in a "heaven and hell" theme. Paradis produces a wide range of wines from about 20 different grape varietals, and makes both unblended and blended wines. Of particular note are the wines bearing the "Pont des Soupirs" (Bridge of sighs) name - a white Viognier and the stunning red blend mentioned earlier - Pont des Soupirs Rouge is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Gamaret - and some of the single varietals such as the Syrah, and unusually for Switzerland a Zinfandel - undoubtedly influenced by Didier having spent spent several years in California working as an oenologue.

Sauvignon Blanc de Chouilly 2007 Roger Burgdorfer Domaine du Paradis Satigny, Geneva
Ref: 4100074

Very aromatic, packed with gooseberry flavours, with hints of cassis and sage, this is an exotic Sauvignon which partners well with salmon, asparagus, artichokes and cheese dishes.

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Price: £17.10 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Pont des Soupirs Blanc (Viognier) 2007 Roger Burgdorfer Domaine du Paradis Satigny, Geneva
Ref: 4100070

The Pont des Soupirs Blanc has spicy and fruity aromas and a complex powerful taste including aniseed, cloves, spice, peach, and apricots. Half the production is oak-aged, the other half tank-aged, and the end result is a blend of the two halves. A superb wine, showing what can be done with Viognier in the right hands. Great on its own but also goes well with oysters and seafood of all types as well as cheeses. One of my favourite Swiss wines.

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Price: £21.60 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Noir Divin 2007 Roger Burgdorfer Domaine du Paradis Satigny, Geneva
Ref: 4100071

A new addition to the Paradis range, Noir Divin is a blend of Gamaret, Merlot, and Garanoir aged part in tank and part in barrel. This wine has aromas of black fruits and spices, and is powerful and fruity on the palate, with a supple structure and silky tannins. It goes divinely with red meats, game or cheese. Drink now and to 2014.

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Price: £19.20 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Le Diable Rouge (Syrah) 2007 Roger Burgdorfer Domaine du Paradis Satigny, Geneva
Ref: 4100076

*(*)

A big wine; very dark red, this spicy Syrah has aromas of violet and cloves. On the palate it is rich and warming; a sumptuous spicy wine which has good length and a dry spicy finish. The ideal partner for the game and truffle-based dishes.

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Price: £21.60 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Le Diable Rouge (Syrah) 2007 Roger Burgdorfer Domaine du Paradis Satigny, Geneva

Pont des Soupirs Rouge 2007 Roger Burgdorfer Domaine du Paradis Satigny, Geneva
Ref: 4100075

**(*)

For me the star wine of the entire Domaine du Paradis range - this stunning red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Gamaret. It's a vin de garde requiring 5 to 8 years before it peaks - although it is still really quite approachable in it's youth. A dark pastel red, on the nose it's not unlike a decent Bordeaux, with aromas of pepper, licorice, vanilla, cedar, and violets. On the palate it's substantial, with masses of fruit, vanilla. The ideal wine for red meats, game and duck. In new livery for the 2007 vintage.

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Price: £24.00 (Including VAT at 20%)

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Pont des Soupirs Rouge 2007 Roger Burgdorfer Domaine du Paradis Satigny, Geneva