Burgenland Wines - An Introduction
Burgenland is a large region to the east and south-east of Vienna, bordering Hungary, which comprises the sub-regions of Neusiedlersee, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Mittelburgenland, and Südburgenland.
The eastern part of Burgenland, near the Hungarian border, is the hottest part of Austria, and includes the areas around the Neusiedlersee, home to many fine Botrytus dessert wines. (These we list in a separate dessert wines section where I also describe the lake). This is red wine country par excellence - the exceptional Pannonian climate enables very high degrees of ripeness unmatched in most other parts of Austria, making possible big chunky reds - to the east of the Neusiedlersee, Zweigelt dominates, yielding strong, juicy red wines, and fantastic examples of St. Laurent are also produced. Blaufränkisch tends to be grown a little further south, around the southern and south-western shores of the lake, and further south still into Mittelburgenland and Südburgenland. There are also some international red varieties grown, including notably some Syrah, which does very well here.
There are also many many useful whites, especially from around the shores of the Neusiedlersee, with varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer, Welschriesling, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and the especially interesting Furmint. Conventional wisdom is that the soils on the west bank of the lake are more complex than those on the east; and it's worth understanding the soil profile of the area around Rust, whose 440 hectares of vines (“Rieden”, or Cru-vineyards) follow a 100 year-old classification system. All the vineyards on the western shore of the Neusiedlersee are east-southeast elevation sites facing the Lake. The soils vary, even between close rows, and can be differentiated into different types, taking Rust as the centre. To the north, the soils are loamy, cool and dense - ideal for Blaufränkisch and humid-loving white wine varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc. To the northwest, lime-clay soils have a top-layer of loess, which again is perfect for the native Blaufränkisch. Further towards the west the soils contain increasingly more chalk and are thus better for Burgundian varieties (e.g. Chardonnay). The soils of the vineyards to the southwest have a high portion of minerals, slate and quartz crystals, thus favouring aromatic varieties such as Syrah/Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot. Click here to see a map of the vineyards around Rust.
Burgenland is also a great place to spend a holiday. Not only is there the wine to explore, and the delights of Vienna and the Wienerwald close at hand, but the lake itself is a big draw for windsurfers. The eastern shore is populated with low-key tourist facilities, with plenty of great value guest houses and hotels. It's quite flat along the lake edge and cycling is popular. And of course a meal at Josef Lentsch's restaurant"Dankbarkeit" at Podersdorf is to die for.
Sundial, Rust. Photo courtesy Weingut Günter & Regina Triebaumer, Rust
Blaufränkisch grapes. Photo courtesy Weingut Günter & Regina Triebaumer, Rust
View of the Neudieslersee, through reeds, vineyards behind. Photo courtesy Weingut Günter & Regina Triebaumer, Rust
Blaufränkisch 2007 Kulm Salzburger Festspielwein Heidi Schröck Weinbau Heidi Schröck, Rust, Burgenland, Austria SOLD OUT
Ref: 4330050Every year Austria's prestigious classical music concert series, the Salzburg Festival, chooses two wines from amongst the country's most renowned wineries for a special Festival-Edition bottling, to be served at all official events and featured at local restaurants and wine shops in the "City of Mozart". For the 2009 festival, one of the wines selected for this honour is Heidi's Blaufränkisch Kulm. The photographer Luigi Caputo contributed his work and talent to the label design that appears on the bottle. The wine radiates a full, silky purple-red glow from the glass and exudes an enticing aroma of oxheart cherries. Together with its definitive minerality, structured tannin and succulent fleshiness, it embodies the classic character of Blaufränkisch from the Neusiedlersee-Hügelland wine region.
Heidi's Blaufränkisch is made from vines that were planted in the Kulm vineyard in 1955. Matured 12 months in large oak casks.
SOLD OUT - try the 2008!
In stock - normally despatched within one working day.
The Schröck- Kracher joint project
Gerhard Kracher of the Kracher estate in Illmitz, famed for it's sweet wines, has teamed up with Heidi Schröck in a joint winemaking venture. The original idea for the project came from Gerhard's late father Alois Kracher, who often spoke with his son about his desire to branch out and try something new across the lake in Rust, the heartland of Ausbruch wine. Early in 2006 the Kracher family bought a vineyard parcel of 0.2 hectares and joined with Heidi Schröck in an equal partnership to make the idea a reality. Some more vineyards were leased, and from 1.5 hectares they produce a classic Ruster Ausbruch - a truly legendary wine in style and origin. Welschriesling, Grauburgunder und Furmint are blended into a cuvée that exudes animated sweetness, fine biscuit and dried fruit flavours and a mineral stature. Schröck and Kracher produce also the Greiner, an opulent Welschriesling with discreet residual sweetness. After three years maturation in cask and barrel, the 2006 vintage has been bottled and both winemakers are pleased with the resulting two wines that have exceeded all expectations: a classic, polished, brilliant Ausbruch, as well as a wine named from it's vineyard of origin, Greiner - a new take on the Welschriesling varietal, semi-sweet with luscious aromatics. We are pleased to have been able to acquire a small quantity of each of these wines.
Alex Schreiner, Gols
Alex Schreiner typifies the young generation of Austrian producers; creative, keen to experiment, but firmly grounded in tradition. For generations, the Schreiner family have run their winery successfully, and Alex entered the business in 2004. The family have 15 hectares of vines scattered around Gols, of which 70% are red and 30% white. My attention was drawn to Alex and his wines as I was hugely impressed with his Blaufränkisch Reserve.
Blaufränkisch Reserve 2006 Alex Schreiner Gols, Burgenland, Austria SOLD OUT Ref: 4330048
A dark ruby garnet, violet tinges. On the nose there are aromas of cherries and blackberries, praline, and some tobacco. On the palate juicy and dense, with exquisite fruit. Good tannic structure, good balancing acidity, some minerals and vanilla. Tremendous stuff which will age well for 5+ years. Very appealing; drink with red meats and fine cheeses.07/08 Falstaff Best buy
A la Carte 5 / 2007 Grand Cru - 90 points
In stock - normally despatched within one working day.
People who bought this item also bought:
- Blaufränkisch Reserve 2007 Alex Schreiner Gols, Burgenland, Austria (Ref: 4330102) Price: £16.80 (Including VAT at 20%)
- Dankbarkeit Rot 2009 Josef Lentsch Podersdorf/See, Burgenland, Austria (Ref: 4330084) Price: £12.30 (Including VAT at 20%)
- Quinta da Raza Vinho Verde Branco 2009 (Ref: 3511000) Price: £8.40 (Including VAT at 20%)
Josef Lentsch, Dankbarkeit, Podersdorf
This is really two businesses in one - a restaurant and a winery. And it's not clear really which one dominates. The restaurant, in the lakeside village of Podersdorf am See, has been in the Lentsch family for generations, and is very much the public face of the business(es). The buildings are ancient, having originally been built by Cistercian Monks, and referred to in old documents as the 'Ebenerdiges Schloss'. It was later the home of a Prussian Count, and was then a hotel before being converted to a restaurant in 1934 by the first Josef Lentsch (the current one is Josef Lentsch 3rd). The first Josef Lentsch decided as a youth to become an innkeeper and, in spite of all opposition, eventually succeeded. The restaurant is called Dankbarkeit, which means Gratitude, to mark the gratitude Josef the 1st must have felt at finally reaching his dream. The restaurant as a result is a place of special meaning.Today, the gardens behind the main house are used in summer for the restaurant, a haven of peace and serenity, and eating here in summer, beneath the shade of old trees, is a real treat. An exceptional gourmet menu, based very much on local produce, is the order of the day here. Fish from the lake, and local beef and game feature prominently. To complement the menu there is of course the extensive winelist.
Josef Lentsch makes some of the best sweet wines in this part of Austria, ranging from Auslese right through to Trockenbeernauslese, including a rare red TBA made from Pinot Noir (out of production at the moment, we're waiting for the next vintage which we will snatch up, make no mistake!).
Grapes are grown on sandy soils near the eastern shores of the Neusiedlersee; some of the grapes are grown in Lentsch-owned vineyards, some are bought from other well-trusted suppliers. The quality of these wines is nothing short of amazing; great sumptuous, lavish, opulent stickies which go on forever. Josef also makes still dry wines - all Pinot, including a fabulous oaked Pinot Gris which wins wide acclaim, and a lovely seductive soft Pinot Noir.
Josef (right in photo) is ably assisted by his son Markus (left), who is following him into the family business - the last time we visited in June 2012 he was acting as Chef in the kitchen - and Markus' sister is studying to follow in the business as well.
Vines near the Neusiedlersee
Josef in the vines
Pinot Noir 2005 Josef Lentsch Podersdorf/See, Burgenland, Austria SOLD OUT Ref: 4330026
2005 vintage of this classic Pinot NoirIn stock - normally despatched within one working day.
Auslese 2003 37.5cl Welschriesling Josef Lentsch Podersdorf/See, Burgenland, Austria SOLD OUT Ref: 4330034
This is from a vineyard very near to the shores of the Neusiedlersee. A very pale golden yellow, it has a sweet herbal nose, with a racy sweet honeyed palate, and good length. Really nice and excellent value.Last few bottles
In stock - normally despatched within one working day.
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- Grüner Veltliner Eiswein 2008, Loiskandl, Grund, Weinviertel (Ref: 4380026) Price: £20.40 (Including VAT at 20%)
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- Schilfwein "The Red One" 2006 37.5cl Gerhardt Nekowitsch Illmitz (Ref: 4330074) Price: £28.80 (Including VAT at 20%)
Erich Sattler, Weinbau Sattler, Tadten
Erich Sattler is a small family producer based in Tadten, a small village close to the eastern shores of the Neusiedlersee and nestled right up against the Hungarian border. At this point, the strip of Austrian territory between lake and Hungary is at its narrowest. On my first visit we got lost, and ended up down a dead-end dirt track with a decaying border post and watchtower at the end - remnants of the cold war paraphernalia that once cast a shadow over life here. Erich makes simply some of the most pleasurable wines I know - simply writing this makes me want to crack open a bottle of his Zweigelt Reserve. And what's amazing is that these stunners are turned out by a relatively recent entrant to the business - Erich only took over the estate in 1999, although it has been in the family for 4 generations. There are currently 10 hectares, on gravel and light sand soils rich in minerals. The largest part of the production is indigenous Austrian reds - 35% Zweigelt and 25% Saint Laurent - with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon and some useful whites. All his wines are great and all represent real value for your hard-earned pound. I confidently predict great things for Erich given the quality of his wines and his relatively short track record.
"Cronos" 2005 Erich Sattler Weinbau Sattler, Tadten SOLD OUT Ref: 4330014
Quite a few of the Austrian producers in these parts make a "super-red" - usually a blend of 2 or 3 different grapes, and this is Sattler's example. It's a blend of (mainly) St.Laurent with some Cabernet Sauvignon and the odd bit of Syrah, and includes the best grapes from three different vineyards. It was aged in French oak barrels (60% new) for 15 months and bottled with minimal filtration. It is a true monster of a wine; a very deep pomegranate red, with an intensive nose of ripe Morello cherries, pepper, brambles, rubbed blackberry leaf, and a hint of mint. On the palate it is intensely flavoured, with black cherries, pepper and fine roasted aromas emerging on the long, long finish. It's at the same time very juicy and sappy, with a fine lick of smooth tannins and vanilla. Very good storage potential. Alc.13.5%. One for food.Bin End 20%This product carries 20% Bin End discount, which is applied to the price above and shown when bin end goods are placed in the shopping basket.
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- Welschriesling 2008 Erich Sattler Weinbau Sattler, Tadten, Burgenland, Austria (Ref: 4330067) Price: £9.90 (Including VAT at 20%)
Weingut Günter & Regina Triebaumer
The Triebaumer family have been active in Rust since 1691 - wine and winemaking has a very long tradition in the family. Guenter Triebaumer and Regina Limbeck took a less direct route into the industry, having worked elsewhere in the industry and having travelled extensively and learnt a great deal about international winemaking before entering the family business at home. They have chosen a winemaking philosophy that is open-minded, modern and forward-thinking, combining roots and tradition with progress. They currently own 16 hectares of very high quality 'Rieden' vineyards in Rust, from which they produce a wide range of wines which are typical of the Burgenland region.
Blaufränkisch 2008 Weingut Günter & Regina Triebaumer Rust, Burgenland, Austria SOLD OUT Ref: 4330045
Purple with a dark violet rim. Intensive nose of cherries and black pepper. Stewed sour cherries with a hint of vanilla and lilac, spicy and dense, Sun-warmed dark berries. Dry, lively & juicy Blaufränkisch-fruit, very classic style, finely-wound tannin structure, inviting flavours of dark berries and cherries with a long zesty and lively finish. Good with goose, mature Emmental, Linguine and red Pesto, roast deer, paprika chicken, bean stews. Drink at 15 - 17°C, decant for an hour first. 13.5% ABV. Bottled April 2009.In stock - normally despatched within one working day.
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- A Taste of Austria Reds Introductory Pack 6 bottles (Ref: AT6RED) Price: £79.80 (Including VAT at 20%)
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Moric
One of the best producers in Burgenland, renowned for their red wines, which have received some of the highest ever Wine Advocate ratings for Austrian reds.
Blaufränkisch Alte Reben 2006 Lutzmannsberg Roland Velich Weingut Moric Grosshöflein, Burgenland, Austria SOLD OUT Ref: 4330069
Parker 94 points. Homeopathic quantity available.In stock - normally despatched within one working day.
