Beira Interior Wine Region, Portugal

The region of Portugal known as the Beiras is often called the granite heart of the country, including as it does Portugal's highest mountain range, the Serra da Estrela, which runs diagonally across the Beiras from southwest to northeast. This is a particularly beautiful part of Portugal, with high mountain peaks and fortified villages, or Aldeias Históricas. Historically, sheep and goat farming was the main economic activity here, and the region is known for its cheeses - including the wonderful, pale creamy delicious cheese - Queijo da Serra Estrela - produced by local shepherds. More recently, Government funding has helped open up this previously isolated region by building new roads and restoring many of the Aldeias Históricas, some of which are now very firmly tourist destinations in their own right. (See link here for tourist information).

West of the Serra da Estrela, the Mondego river winds its way through the high, wooded Dao country, the city of Coimbra (capital of the Beiras), before reaching the sea at Figueira da Foz. The Beiras were once divided into different areas - Beira Litoral (Coastal), Beira Baixa (lower), and Beira Alta (upper) - though these distinctions are now obsolete. Beira Interior today is that part of Beiras including the Serra de Marofa south of the Douro region, the eastern part of the Serra da Estrela range, and the mountains bordering Spain. Granite dominates here - the mountains, the buildings, and dry stone walls. This is a high-altitude region - even valley floors are around 300m above sea level. The granite soils and altitude influence the character of local wines; soils are thin and meagre, with high acidity. High alcohol wines can result from growers waiting for tannins to ripen. Beira Interior is very much an emerging winegrowing region, not as developed as others elsewhere in Portugal, having suffered from inaccessibility and economic hardship leading to lack of investment.

Today there is a mix of co-operatives and small producers, and a few small producers have made significant investment in modern methods and are outperforming the rest, as massive improvements in the quality of the wines areseen. Most of the grape varieties used in Beira Interior are also grown elsewhere in Portugal, but one premium white variety, Fonte Cal, is indigenous to Beira Interior. Our supplier in Beira Interior is the excellent Quinta dos Currais, at Capinha, run by José Diogo Tomás since 1989.

Quinta dos Currais is a relatively new producer in Beira Interior, but one which is being noticed. José Diogo Tomás bought the estate in only 1989, but he represents the 3rd generation of a family of winemakers. The estate comprises some 160 hectares, but only 30 hectares of this are vines, the remainder being mainly white oak forest and cherry trees, whose wood is used for furniture making. The vines are on average somewhat over 10 years old, and the vineyards are at an altitude of about 500m. The site is located some 25km south-east of Covilhã in what was the old Roman region known as Talavara, today known as Capinha, in the middle of Egitânia. It includes zones known as Currais (corrals) and Santana a name given to it because of an ancient sanctuary placed there and extends as far as Ribeira de Meimoa at south. The estate was established with white Arinto, Síria, and Fonte-cal, and reds Castelão, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Rufete. These grapes are ideally suited to their north-south exposition and by the schist soils. More recently, a wine-cellar equipped with the most modern oenological technology for vinification, ageing and bottling, was constructed.

Quinta dos Currais 100% Síria 2008 Ref: 3512000

Síria is a grape grown principally in the interior of Portugal. It is the most planted white grape variety in the Alentejo region, where it is known as Roupeiro. However, Síria is a grape which gives of its best when grown in cooler climates, as in hotter regions the wines can lack acidity and be insufficiently aromatic. For this reason it is now also grown in the higher and cooler lands including Beira Interior, where it producers excellent results, with delicate, fresh, and elegant wines. Síria is a very productive grape variety, with large numbers of small-berried small bunches. It can be tricky in the vineyard; it is resistant to mildew, but prone to rot, meaning it prefers dry well-aerated sites.

This Síria wine from Quinta dos Currais is a pale lemon-yellow, with a fresh fruity nose with hints of white flowers. On the palate there are complex exotic flavours, with stonbe fruit - peaches, and mandarins. Good acidity; a refreshing and unusual wine which is quite delightful and well worth some attention. Also it's a bargain!
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Quinta dos Currais Tinto 2008 Ref: 3512002

This wine is a blend of 25% Touriga Nacional, 50% Aragonês, 10% Castelão and 15% Rufete. Following traditional vinification, temperature controlled for 8-9 days, the wine is macerated and then aged 9 months in French and American oak barrels and a further 4 months in bottle.

A limpid ruby red with purple tinges, the nose is complex and fruity, with dark plummy aromas, raspberry notes, vanilla, cinnamon, and ginger. On the palate there is good body, lots of plummy & red berry fruit, and generous soft tannins, with good balancing acidity. This wine is a good match for red meat dishes, hearty stews, and strong cheeses. Open an hour before consumption. Drink - now to 2015.

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Quinta dos Currais Red Reserve 2003 Ref: 3512003

This is a blend of 50% Touriga Nacional, 25% Aragonês, and 25% Castelão. Following traditional vinification, temperature controlled for 5-6 days, the wine is macerated and then aged 18 months in French and a further 14 months in bottle.

This is a very serious wine indeed. A deep granite red, with a nose of vanilla, sweet red barry fruit, and garrigue. On the palate there is masses of deep dark fruit, with soft grippy ripe tannins and sweet spice, all wrapped up in a smooth velvety texture. Huge length. Open an hour before consumption, and drink at 14-15 deg C with robust dishes such as venison and game stews. Drink - now to 2022.

One of Sarah Ahmed's 50 Great Portuguese wines for 2010. Click here for more information.

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Quinta dos Currais Red Reserve 2004 Ref: 3512004

As with the 2003, this is a blend of 50% Touriga Nacional, 25% Aragonês, and 25% Castelão. Following traditional vinification, temperature controlled at a temperature of up to 28º C for 8 to 10 days followed by slight post-fermentation maceration.for 5-6 days, then it was aged 18 months in French oak and a further 14 months in bottle. Final bottling was in November 2009.

The style is broadly similar to the 2003, but the colour is slightly deeper, and the character slightly lighter, warmer and more elegant. If you want a heavy wine go for the '03, if you want elegant complexity then the '04 is the choice. Drink - now to 2022.

Give at least half an hour to breathe.

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