Austrian Wine Information

Austrian Wine - an Overview
Austria is, by world standards, a tiny wine producing nation, with only some 1% of world output; a real tiddler. Wine has been made here for at least 3 millenia, and today Austria produces world-class dry white wines which are widely praised by the wine press the world over. There are also serious reds being made by talented growers who take their lead from Burgundy and Bordeaux, and some of the best sweet wines on earth. Austria has its own range of unique grape varietals, and these will be found in all these styles of wine. With high demand at home (average annual consumption is 33 litres/head), and limited prduction, not much gets exported. Austria is a wine country of great originality and its own unique wine culture like no other on earth, influenced largely by tavern culture in which wine-making families make a wide range of wines for sale to customers. Are Austrian wines the world's best-kept wine secret? Maybe they have been, but this is starting to change. The active state-funded Austrian Wine Marketing Board promotes Austrian wines the world over, and exports are rising. Yet Austrian wines remain hardly well-known in the UK; time to try them, I think...... So what exactly does Austria have to offer?
world-class dry whites from Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc Grüner Veltliner!!!!! Possibly the most flexible and food-friendly white grape in the entire world. some of the world's best Pinot Blancs fascinating indigenous red varieties such as Zweigelt, Saint Laurent, and Blaufränkisch which create medium to heavyweight wines which are great with food, have unique tastes, and which smell just fantastic. a dynamic and youthful winemaking culture, with growers not afraid to experiment in the quest for quality. some of the best sweet wines on the face of the earth, from one of the most remarkable places in the world for botrytis-affected wine - the Neusiedlersee. Beerenausleses, Trockenbeerenausleses, and the obscure Ausbruchs which are exotic, full, luscious, and which go on forever. history, great depth of culture, heart-breakingly beautiful scenery, quaint villages, baroque architecture, good food, and of course the heurige, which combine to make it a refined wine-tourism destination par excellence.

Austrian Wine Regions
For administrative purposes, Austria is divided into four main winegrowing regions, these being sub-divided into a total of 18 different winegrowing areas. Some information about each of these 18 follows; this is more detailed for those areas we represent, or plan to represent.

The Wachau

The Wachau is the region along the banks of the Danube at the eastern end of the larger region known as Niederösterriech (Lower Austria). It is centred around the Baroque masterpiece of Melk, and stretches along the Danube for some 30km, encompassing towns including Spitz-an-der Donau, Joching, Weissenkirchen, Dürnstein, Loiben, and Mautern. Undoubtedly one of the most treasured of Austria's winegrowing areas, the Wachau produces some of the best white wines in Austria, including world-class Rieslings and some of the best Grüner Veltliners you will ever taste. Not only are the wines sublime, but the countryside too is beautiful, with apricot orchards and steep terraced vineyards on both sides of the river melting harmoniously into mediaeval villages, with the Danube itself - some 200 metres wide here - providing a majestic backdrop to the beauty of the region.

Loiben seen from the Loibenberg, with the River Danube behind

Here too is history, with centuries of winemaking and architecture bringing an inimitable atmosphere and vivacity. There are ancient castles, including the Hinterhaus at Spitz, and a fortress at Dürnstein, where Richard the Lionheart was held in the 12th century. This is indeed winemaking country par excellence. The region blooms during the apricot season in the springtime (Apricot, or Marillen brandy is another regional speciality) - and this is a wonderful time to visit - but anytime is the perfect time to savour the wonderful wines from this most delightful of regions. The Wachau has 1,390 hectares of vines, planted in soils of weathered primary rock, sand, and loess. In addition to Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, other typically Austrian varieties grown here include Neuberger and Gelber Muskateller. The "Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus" is the local association to which most local winemakers belong, and which defines the classification of Wachau wines, Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd.

The geology in the Wachau is based around soils derived from primary rock, known here as urgestein. This is composed largely of granite, gneiss or mica-schist, although the composition varies somewhat throughout the region, with slate in the west around Spitz, more loam in around Weissenkirchen in the central Wachau, and then in the east around Krems, and the gateway to the Kremstal, some limestone. The climate in the Wachau varies quite significantly over short distances and is quite interesting. At the western end, around Spitz, it is cooler, as here cold winds can blow down from the mountains, so the wines here are more fragile and have more of a nervy steely character than in the east, where the land is flatter, and where the climate is starting to become affected by the Pannonian climate of the great Hungarian Putsch which lies not far to the east - near the Austrian/Hungarian border, around the Neusiedlersee this is much more pronounced, with bitterly cold winters and hot arid summers. Everywhere in the Wachau, the climate is moderated by the proximity of the river, although it can be very dry in summer and limited irrigation is permitted. Because of the differences in the climate, the harvest date also varies, being a bit earlier in the east than around Spitz.

St. Quirin Church at Loiben, surrounded by vineyards

Where to Stay, Eat, and get more information in the Wachau - Tourist Tips

Goldenes Schiff, Spitz - old on the outside, modern & comfortable within, this hotel is located near the river in Spitz and has a pleasant restaurant. Parking immediately outside. Open in Winter, when many places are closed. Ask for a room with river views.
Barock Landhof Burkhardt, Spitz - amazing old hotel in a baroque building in the heart of Spitz, up the hill a 5-minute walk away from the river. Atmospheric, quiet, large gardens and parking. Breakfast only, no evening meals. Good value and highly recommended.
Weingut Schweighofer, Loiben - family-run winemaking establishment with Heurige and comfortable rooms. One of our suppliers.
Weingut Lagler, Spitz - Hotel set amidst vineyards. One of our suppliers.
Jamek Restaurant, Joching - Sublime food and wine in highly atmospheric surroundings. If you only treat yourself once during your trip, do it here.
Landhaus Bacher, Mautern - charming old hotel with top-notch restaurant with dazzling wine list.
Tourist office of Spitz-an-der Donau - good gateway to lots of useful information.

Kremstal

The Kremstal is the region lying along the banks of the Danube, bordering and to the east of the Wachau, centred around the town of Krems. One of the oldest wine centres in Austria, Krems has always been associated with wine, and its' mediaeval character has been very well preserved. Today one can stroll through its its narrow romantic streets, taking in the Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture. The 2,170 hectares of vines in the Kremstal produce wines dominated by Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, with characteristics not unlike those of the Wachau. Grüner Veltliners are very approachable, with soft fruit and a pepper note. Notable vineyards include the Kremser Pfaffenberg, below the Baroque Monastery at Göttweig. In addition to the reputed whites, Kremstal wines also include some very good reds.

Weinviertel

The Weinviertel is located in the north-eastern part of Austria, near to the border with the Czech & Slovak Republics. This is the largest winegrowing region in Austria, with more than 15,000 hectares of vineyards, the principal grape varieties grown being Grüner Veltliner and Welschriesling, although other white varieties such as Riesling, Weissburgunder and Chardomnnay are also grown. Reds too are made from Zweigelt and Blauer Portugieser. The region has many charming wine villages and towns, many with "Kellergassen", streets lined with cellars resembling struccoed houses. Interesting towns include Retz, Eggenburg, Falkenstein, and Poysdorf, possibly Austria's most picturesque wine town.

Kamptal

This is the picturesque region around Langenlois, Austrtia's largest wine town which is located to the west of Vienna, and which takes its name from the river Kamp. As with the Wachau and Kremstal, the primary grape varieties are Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, grown on some 3,800 hectares of primary rock, loess, and clay soils. Winegrowing history here goes back a long way; the local museum in Langenlois has exhibits showing that this region has been populated by man since the stone age, and the Heiligenstein vineyard is mentioned in the Zwettl Abbey register of 1280, which refers to it as "Hellenstein", or hell stone, on a mountain where the sun "burns like hell". During the day, the hillsides are heated by the sun's rays, whilst at night they are cooled by the fresh breeze from the Waldviertel to the north.

Traisental

This is a region in Lower Austria to the south-east of Vienna, south of the river Danube. Excavations from 4000 years ago testify that wine was grown here in pre-Roman times; over the centuries, terraced vineyards have been dug into the loess soils. Today some 680 hectares yield mostly Grüner Veltliner wines which are fresh, fruity, and zesty. Modest amounts of Chardonnay and Riesling are also grown. The region is centred around the wine villages of Nussdorf, Getzersdorf, and Reichersdorf, which are surrounded by vineyards stretching to the Alpine foothills. This is a pretty region, and vineyard walks are rewarded with views over glorious countryside.

Donauland

To the north-west of Vienna, along the Danube, and centred around the town of Tulln, lies the Donauland. This is a wine-growing district of some 2,730 hectares, producing wines including Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, and the regional speciality Roter Veltliner. In the eastern part of the Donauland is Klosterneuberg, with its imposing 900-year old monastery (which houses the largest winery in Austria) and the famous research centre and school of viticulture.

Carnuntum

South-east of Vienna, and to the north of the Neusiedlersee is the district known as Carnuntum, with its 890 hectares of vines. Deep soils, cooling winds from the Danube plains, and the tempering influence of the lake combine to produce a climate ideal for the cultivation of Grüner Veltliner, Zweigelt, and Blaufränkisch. It is these latter red wines in particular for which Carnuntum is rapidly becoming known; monumental Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, bursting with fruit and ripe tannins, plus quality Cabernet Sauvignon, make this a region to be watched.

Thermenregion

South of Vienna is the district known as Thermenregion, which takes its name from ancient thermal baths (Baden is today still a spa town). Thermenregion is centred around the wine villages of Gumpoldskirchen, Traiskirchen, Sooss, Guntramsdorf, Tattendorf, and Perchtoldsdorf. This is heurigen country par excellence, with many establishments frequented by visitors from nearby Vienna. The district is often compared with the Côte d'Or in France due to similar soil formation and climate. Many grape varieties are grown here but of particular interest are the rare indigenous Rotgipfler and Zierfandler, which give exotic wines with quince and orange aromas, have good body, and age extremely well.

Neusiedlersee, Nuesiedlersee - Hügelland

The village of Rust on the western shores of the Neusiedlersee, home of noble "Ausbruch" wines.

Technically, the sub-zone known as Neusiedlersee extends around the eastern side of the lake of the same name. Nuesiedlersee - Hügelland is the region around the western side of the lake, centred around Eisenstadt and extending away from the lake as far as Wiener Neustadt. The area around the Neusiedlersee, a shallow steppe lake straddling the Hungarian border, is one of the most amazing places on earth for the production of sweet botrytis-affected wines. Only here, around the lake, and in Hungary's Tokajhegyalja does the Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot, attack grapes so reliably every year. Other great sweet wine regions in Germany and France also make superb sweet wines, but not dependably every year, as the fungus does not attack elsewhere as reliably as it does here; meaning that the sweet wines from this region are more plentiful and hence generally cheaper than exalted examples from better-known sources. Austrian sweet wines are also much less known in the UK, although this is a shame, as they are amongst the best in the world. A variety of other top-quality red and white wines are also found here, from both Austrian and international varieties.

Mittelburgenland

In the far east of Austria, alongside the Hungarian border to the south of the Neusiedlersee, is the district of Mittelburgenland. This is a region of forested hills, with deep clay soils, and winegrowing here is very much focused on red wine grapes, and in particular one variety - the Blaufränkisch, so much so in fact that the district has earned the nickname "Blaufränkischland". Some exceptional red wines are produced here from this variety, with its racy structure and marked acidity. Also found are smaller quantities of Zweigelt, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, which are sometimes blended with Blaufränkisch.

Südburgenland
To the south of Mittelburgenland lies Südburgenland, another district with a strong emphasis on red wines. Here too the Blaufränkisch thrives in the iron-rich soils, and expresses itself with a fascinating spiciness. Südburgenland is also known for the regional speciality "uhudler" - a simple wine made from a near-extinct grape variety vitis labrusca.

Südsteiermark
This is a hilly region in the south-east of Austria, adjacent to the Slovenian border. A wide range of wines are made from both Austrian and international varieties. Classic styrian wines include the fresh fruity Welschriesling, the aromatic Gelber Muskateller, racy weissburgunder, and the fragrant Sauvignon Blanc.

Südoststeiermark

This pretty region has for the most part gently undulating countryside, punctuated here and there with strange rock formations that are the last indicators of its volcanic past. The volcanic soils and cooler climate give wines which are spicy and aromatic. Varieties grown include a mix of modern international (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay) and traditional (Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, Zweigelt, Traminer). Most winegrowers here are part-timers; average plot size is only around 0.5 hectares (just over an acre).

Weststeiermark

Western Styria is a bit of an oddball district, producing nearly exclusively one wine, a salmon pink Rosé known as Schilcher, mae from the Blauer Wildbacher grape. This has high acidity, but correct winemaking techniques allow the creation of wines of elegance and sophistication, leading to Schilcher's current cult status. Schilcher is not seen much outside the region, other than in Viennese bars. Small amounts of sekt and traditional reds and whites are also made. The countryside is idyllic, much of it pristine forest. The photo shows the klapotetz, a wooden windmill designed to make a clacking noise to scare birds away from the grapes.

Wien

Vienna is the only major capital city in the world with significant wine production nearby. The vines still extend, however, into parts of the city itself, as they have done for hundreds of years. Today, in and around Vienna ar some 680 hectares of vines, planted mainly on slate, gravel, loam and loess soils. Main varieties are Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Zweigelt, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Most of the wine is destined for the city's heurigen, and is intended to be drunk young. Sales of higher quality bottled wine are however increasing, and some exceptional wines are being made. Best areas: Heiligenstadt, Nussdorf, Sievering, Grinzing, and around the Bisamberg hill.

Austrian Wine Grape Varieties - White
Riesling Just about all of Austria's greatest dry whites are made from Riesling. Many would say Riesling is the best wine grape in the world. To give of its best though, it is fussy about where it is planted - and it simply thrives on many outstanding sites in Austria - on mainly primary rock, or urgestein soils. Austrian Rieslings are a revelation, yet are quite different from those from Germany or Alsace. In Austria, fine Rieslings are typically dry and substantial, some with as much as 14% alcohol, yet have a raciness and delicacy arguably unsurpassed anywhere. The minerality in these wines is also very special, like no other elsewhere. Often they have pronounced citrus aromas and flavours, and sometimes complex tropical fruits. Riesling is found in many Austrian wine districts, but her best Rieslings come from the Wachau, with the Kremstal a close second; it is in these districts that we find a high proportion of primary rock soils, and many terraced vineyard sites, offering maximum exposure to the sun and to reflected light from the Danube as it wends its way through the river valley. Also these regions lie at the boundary between 2 rather different climatic zones - the Pannonian climate of Burgenland and the flat Hungarian plains to the east, and the cooler pre-alpine climate to the west. Everywhere in the Wachau, the climate is moderated by the proximity of the river, although it can be very dry in summer and limited irrigation is permitted. Because of the differences in the climate, the harvest date also varies, being a bit earlier in the eastern Wachau and in the Kremstal than in the western Wachau around Spitz.
Grüner Veltliner If you are not already familiar with the delights of Austrian wines, then you are unlikely to have tried this variety before, for it is grown almost exclusively in Austria, apart from a small amount in Hungary and the Czech Republic. (Someone somewhere may have tried it in a new-world vineyard, but I've not come across it myself). In Austria, it represents just over a third of the area under vine, so it is a very significant variety there - probably the most significant. I simply love Grüner Veltliner (GV); it is amazing stuff which deserves better recognition. GV is incredibly flexible; not only does it produce wines which are simply delicious, they partner so many foods that you would not immediately imagine a good wine match for - it is arguably the world's most flexible grape at the table. GV makes many different styles of wine, the spectrum ranging from basic lightweight versions (including heurige wines) through to world class big-wine stunners which can put other top grape varieties to shame when handled correctly - and everything in-between. The everyday version is ideal as a summer thirst-quencher, great for picnics, barbeques, and general good-weather hedonism - with or without food. The serious versions challenge other lofty white wines very effectively. There have been several recent instances of professional tastings where GV, up against heavyweights such as top white Burgundies costing several times as much, has taken the top honours. And these results are repeated over and over; and are not one-off flukes. So what is GV like? Unlike most stuff you've tasted before. I find it quite hard to distinguish cleanly between GV's aromas and flavours, because the two seem so very intertwined. It isn't a highly aromatic variety, which may partially explain this, but GV is often described as being spicy, with aromas/flavours which include freshly ground white pepper, meadow flowers, underripe melon, green vegetables, (green beans and freshly broken pea-pods spring to mind), newly mown grass, a flinty minerality, and undefined citrussy notes, sort of halfway between lime and grapefruit. Lentils, mustard, and cress are commonly cited. Fruitier examples may show rhubarb and strawberry aromas. Depending on where it's grown, there may also be tropical & stone fruit (peaches, apricots) an earthiness, and a mossy/herby/undergrowth smell. Iron ore springs to mind too. GV can indeed be complex. GV epitomises sharp green things in general; so maybe I should be radical here, and give GV a whole new category all of its own - we've got red wines, we've got white wines, well maybe what GV needs is a green wine category. And GV ages superbly. It lasts longer than Riesling, and it takes a long time to mature. Which in many ways is a shame, because the best wines are hard to come by, so you normally have to age them yourself. But age GV does, and rather differently to Riesling - there is no sign of the petrol note so often referred to with Riesling, and the depth of flavour and complexity that can develop is nothing short of awesome. The texture can become somewhat chewy and sinuous, with a spicy/cressy/mushroom character that no other variety I know offers. I recently drank a 1995 Ried Achleiten Federspiel from Jamek - a serious wine when first bottled, but this older example was a revelation, with a sinewy meaty chewy texture, a complex spicy minerality, and a quite remarkable panoply of mushroomy, peppery, and cressy flavours. And this was just the Federspiel, which at 9 years old, was just getting into its stride. Regrettably I don't have any of the Smaragd, which must be better still (how is hard to imagine). And at the more serious end of the spectrum, GV even goes well with foods you would have considered traditional red wine territory - and heavy reds at that. It cuts through flavoursome foods, especially fatty ones, with no difficulty. For example, try it with foie gras or confit de canard (where a heavy red Madiran might typically be thought a good choice). GV is good young or mature - it's just different. And costs? Top Austrian wines will regrettably never be cheap, but GV runs to somewhat less than equiivalent quality Rieslings, maybe 10-15% less, which is probably about right - because the Rieslings are that bit harder to cultivate, and the best Rieslings probably do have the edge in terms of the finer flavours, but GV will at all levels from jug-wine to the most serious stuff nearly always represent a better bet and better value than comparable wines from most other well-known international grape varieties. So all things considered, GV is a very flexible and practical wine - and not just for drinkers, but also in the vineyard. It isn't fussy about soil types, and expresses the terroir well. Wines grown on meagre primary rock soils such as those in the Wachau exhibit pronounced minerality and a vegetal spiciness; those grown on fertile alluvial soils are fruitier. Growers love GV too, as it's relatively low maintenance and is also capable of high output, although of course better growers restrict yield in the interests of quality.
Gelber Muskateller Not be confused with the inferior high-yielding standard Muscat (Muskat-Ottonel), this is an altogether better variety, but one which is hard to cultivate. It is grown only in small quantities, as it is very demanding on location, being sensitive to rot from fungal attacks and frost, although it is not fussy about soil type. The wines are highly fragrant, with an intense floral bouquet, with the best having a sweet grassiness, and good acidity. They make an excellent summer wine. There are records of the Gelber Muskateller being grown in the Wachau as long ago as 1400, although there is also a long tradition of its cultivation in Styria and Burgenland. It is used to make wines in a variety of styles all the way up to Prädikat, with the stronger examples having tremendous storage potential.
Chardonnay An international variety which has found some popularity in Austria in recent years. Now grown quite widely, but still in relatively small quantities. Can produce wines in a variety of styles from fresh and fruity through to rich and buttery.
Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) An international variety that is widely grown the world over, but is particularly well-known in Alsace, where some excellent examples are made. Excellent yes, but the best Pinot Blancs in the world emanate from Austria, where the variety is grown quite widely, but with particular representation in the areas around the Neusiedlersee, Styria, Vienna, and Lower Austria including the Wachau and Kamptal. The quality of Austrian Pinot Blanc wines is outstanding, with true world-class examples which can stand along anything grown in Alsace. In Austria, even mid-range Pinot Blancs are stylish, with flavours of almonds and good acidity. The best are concentrated, amazingly complex, and age well in bottle, some in excess of a decade.
Neuberger An Austrian white variety which is believed to be a natural cross between Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner, originating from the Spitzer Graben area in the Wachau. Relatively easy to cultivate, and not particularly demanding on soil types, although it does best on primary rock. Neuberger produces wines with relatively neutral fragrance, but which are refined and elegant, often with a pronounced nutty taste. The best Neubergers are probably from the Wachau, but interesting examples are also found in Burgenland and Thermenregion, where Neuberger is also a popular heurige wine.
Roter Veltliner Not particularly well-named for a white grape variety, Roter Veltliner is a very old indigenous Austrian variety, thought to originate from Lower Austria, grown today there and also in the Kremstal and Donauland regions. Produces wines which are greenish-yellow, fragrant and fruity, with spicy aromas; can be quite acidic.
Rotgipfler A natural cross of Traminer and Roter Veltliner, first documented around 1840 in Styria, but now grown principally in Thermenregion, where it has helped to establish the reputation gained by the wines of Gumpoldskirchen. The wines are golden-yellow with a prominent fresh spicy bouquet, and are rich and fruity, and often high in alcohol.
Sauvignon Blanc An international variety which was first planted in Austria over 100 years ago. A fresh stimulating wine with racy acidity and good structure, it has a greenish-yellow colour, with aromas of newly mown grass and paprika. Can age very well. The best Austrian examples are from Styria, but very impressive specimens can be found also in Lower Austria, in particular in the Wachau, although quantities here are tiny.
Welschreisling The 2nd most widely grown grape variety in Austria after Grüner Veltliner, with some 8.9% of vineyards planted with it, mainly in Burgenland, Lower Austria, and Styria. It is quite picky about where it will grow, preferring protection from wind and soils that are not too dry. It produces fresh fruity wines which are spicy, and which are for the most part best drunk young; indeed it is a popular *heurige* wine. Can also make excellent Prädikat wines.
Zierfandler (Spätrot) Another oddly named variety - Spätrot (late red) is a white grape. Probably originally from Lower Austria, and now grown almost exclusively in Thermenregion, it is the other mainstay of the wines from Gumpoldskirchen. Only some 100 hectares are grown, making it very rare. The wines are golden yellow, and have a fruity bouquet and good acidity. Most is produced with some residual sugar, and it is often blended with Rotgipfler.
Austrian Wine Grape Varieties - Red
(Blauer) Zweigelt A cross of St. Laurent with Blaufränkisch, developed at Klosterneuberg in 1922 by Professor Fritz Zweigelt, who gave it his name. Zweigelt wines are a deep cherry-red, with aromas of cooked sour cherries, and sometimes chocolate. They smell just fantastic. On the palate they are dry, with pronounced cherry/raspberry flavours and often a spicy earthiness. It ranges in quality from a light wine right through to powerful blockbusting examples; it grows well in most places, but particularly good examples are found in Thermenregion and near the Neusiedlersee. Generally considered the best Austrian red grape.
Blaufränkisch A dark-berried variety which produces wines of real character, which are deeply fruity and with fine acidity, good tannins, and with flavours of liquorice and derk berries. Superb chunky examples are made in Burgenland and Thermenregion.
St. Laurent An Austrian variety which is believed to be in some way related to Pinot Noir, and which shares many of the characteristics of that grape. The wines have aromas of sour cherries & dark berry fruit, and resemble more powerful versiuons of Pinot Noir. In good years it can produce truly excellent wines, particularly in Burgenland and Thermenregion. Hard to grow as it suffers from blossom-drop and Botrytis, and consequently has become less popular with growers. Often used in blends with other varieties.
Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) Under construction.
Blauer Portugieser Under construction.
Cabernet Sauvignon Under construction.
Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher) Under construction.

The Great Austrian Wine Scandal of 1985

One of the more notorious events of recent Austrian Wine history was the scandal of 1985. The early 1980s had been marked by a succession of vintages in which favourable climatic conditions and intensive viticulture combined to produce extremely high yields, and a substantial amount of wine was made which was of such poor quality as to be virtually unsaleable. Much Austrian wine was at this time sold into the German market in bulk, but this market demanded riper (and thus sweeter) wines than these low-end products, which were light, dilute, and acidic. A cunning chemist discovered that adding a small amount of diethylene glycol to wines such as these added a certain body and sweetness to them, and rendered them more palatable. Diethylene glycol was considered safe, and was very difficult to detect by the authorities. Tankerloads of doctored wine were shipped off to Germany masquerading as quality wine, with forged documentation supporting its supposed provenance. One has to question the intelligence of those perpetrating the fraud, however, as the scandal came to light when of one of them claimed for the the cost of the ethylene glycol on his income tax return. A number of prosecutions followed, and the resulting publicity sent shockwaves through the world of Austrian wine, tarnishing its reputation on an international scale. Some countries banned its import altogether. The scale of the fraud was not really that large, with only a couple of dozen people involved; however the reaction was significant, and memories of the scandal refuse to go away. Mention "Austrian Wine" to many and time-worn jokes about anti-freeze will often be recited.

Following the scandal, the Austrian Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry imposed strict new laws to regulate the industry, with the intention of preventing further malpractice, restoring confidence in Austrian wine, and repairing the damage done to export markets - especially Germany, Austria's largest customer. These new laws, reinforced by later amendments stipulating upper limits to yields, today define the Austrian wine classification system.

With the benefit of hindsight, the scandal is now seen by many as a catalyst for change and as a positive event. Those responsible were middle-men; this part of the Austrian wine trade has all but disappeared, and nowadays many more growers deal directly with customers. But more important is the effect on quality; the strict new laws, plus other regional classification systems (such as that in the Wachau) were inspired by the need for change and the desire to improve quality in the wake of the scandal. It is important to remember that the scandal itself was just a symptom of the poor quality culture that already pertained in some parts of the trade before 1985, and this issue too has been addressed as today winemaking styles have changed, away from flabby sweet wines made in imitation of sweet German wines, towards the dry whites so highly praised today, and a greater proportion of quality reds.

Austrian Wine Law and Quality Classifications

The quality classifications that exist today in Austria are a legacy from the second world war, when Austria adopted a classification system loosely based on the German system, but were reinforced by new laws following the scandal of 1985. The Wachau in particular has created its own system. These systems are described below. A new system, the "DAC" (Districtus Austria Controllatus) is currently being trialled in the Weinviertel region. This is an origin-based system, more like the French AOC. If successful, this may be rolled out to other regions in time.

Austrian National Classifications
Tafelwein (table wine)	Produced from within Austria, can be inter-regionally blended or from one region, with a minimum must weight of 10.7° KMW. A statement of vintage or grape variety is not permitted, the only exceptions to this being (1) Bergwein - from vineyards with a slope of more than 26%, and (2) Bottled Heuriger wine - where a stament of vintage is required.
Landwein (country wine)	Part of the Tafelwein group, but the grapes must all come from within one wine growing region with no inter-regional blending allowed. It must have a minimum must weight of 14° KMW, the dry extract excluding sugar must be at least 17g/litre, and a maximum alcohol level of 11.5% and 6 g/l residual sugar. No statement may be made about wine district or specific vineyard.
Qualitätswein (quality wine)	The grapes must all come from a single wine district, and the minimum permitted must weight is 15° KMW. The wine is allowed chaptalisation to a maximum of 19° KMW for white wines and 20° KMW for red wines with minimum alcohol levels of 9.0%. Dry extract excluding sugar must be at least 18.0 g/litre.
Kabinett	These wines are regarded as Qualitätswein, but have a higher specification - they must have a minimum must weight of 17° KMW, they may not be chaptalised, residual sugar content must not exceed 9g/litre, and maximum alcohol content is 12.7%.
Prädikatswein	This term is used to describe a range of wines from Spätlese to Eiswein, which are generally regarded as being sweet. A separate table is shown below with details of the prädikatswein categories. In all cases, no chaptalisation is permitted, and all residual sugar must result from interruption or natural termination of the fermentation process, and therefore be natural. In addition to the ban on chaptalisation, no enrichment with any other substance (must, grape juice, concentrates) is permitted.

*Prädikatswein Categories*
Spätlese	Spätlese wines should be made from completely ripe grapes, and have a minimum must weight of 19° KMW. The wines are not released for sale until March 1st following the harvest.
Auslese	Auslese wines are made from selected completely ripe and botrytised grapes, and have a minimum must weight of 21° KMW. Grape selection should be rigorous, with all faulty or unripe grapes removed. The wines are not released for sale until May 1st following the harvest.
Beerenauslese (BA)	Beerenauslese wines are made from selected over-ripe and botrytised grapes, and have a minimum must weight of 25° KMW. Grape selection should be rigorous, with all faulty or unripe grapes removed. The wines are not released for sale until May 1st following the harvest.
Ausbruch	Ausbruch wines (principally from Rust on the Neusiedlersee) are made only from over-ripe botrytised grapes which have been shrivelled and dried through botrytis whilst still on the vine. A quantity of freshly pressed grape juice or late harvest wine from the same vineyard may be added to the grapes to assist in the pressing operation to extract the maximum sweet juice. The minimum must weight is 27° KMW. The wines are not released for sale until May 1st following the harvest.
Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)	Normally the sweetest wines, Trockenbeerenauslese wines are made from completely botrytised, shrivelled grape berries, and must have a minimum must weight of 30° KMW. The wines are not released for sale until May 1st following the harvest.
Eiswein	Incredibly long-lived Eiswein is made from grapes which are frozen when harvested and pressed; the contents are concentrated because the water remains in the pressed grape skins as ice. Eiswein must have a minimum must weight of 25° KMW. The wines are not released for sale until May 1st following the harvest.

Wachau Classifications Most of Austria uses Germanic wine classifications (Kabinet, Spätlese etc.) but the Wachau uses its own system to classify its wines. This is controlled by the local "Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus" association, run by key growers. There are three categories: Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd.
Steinfeder	These are the simplest wines. Named after a local strain of grass that grows in the rocks among the vines, Steinfeder (literally "Stone feather") wines are light wines to be drunk young. They have a must weight between 73° and 83° Oeschle, and at most 10.7% alcohol. These wines can be most attractive when the grapes used are fully ripe. However, these are really wines to be quaffed in the region at a *heurige* on a hot summers evening, rather than being serious wines appropriate to be exported.
Federspiel	Next is Federspiel, which is approximately equivalent to Kabinett in the Germanic system. The name Federspiel comes from a device used in falconry to lure the hawk back to the glove. These wines are rather more serious, and represent the largest part of the Wachau's output. They have a minimum must weight of 83° Oeschle, and reach 11.5% alcohol. Nearly always dry, Federspiel wines benefit from at least a few months in bottle.
Smaragd	The best class of Wachau wines, Smaragd are usually dry, and have not normally been through the second (malolactic) fermentation. "Smaragd" translates as "emerald", and refers to a species of lizard which likes to bask in the sun between the vines on a hot summers day. Smaragd wines are made from fully ripe grapes, with minimum must weight of 90° Oeschle, and 12% alcohol. Maximum 9g/litre residual sugar. They are produced in smaller quantities than the other two classifications, and better ones can be quite hard to get hold of. They will keep well, and many benefit from a few years bottle aging. Get to know them well; they represent the very best that Austria has to offer in the way of dry whites, and are up there with the very best white wines the world produces.

Sweetness, the Klosterneuberger Mostwaage (KMW), and all that stuff....

Firstly, the basics. It is the sugar in grapes which, when the must is fermented, turns into the alcohol the wine will contain. When all the sugar has been converted, the primary fermentation is complete. If there is insufficient sugar to obtain the desired alcoholic strength, more can be added through a process known as chaptalisation. On the other hand, fermentation can be terminated prior to the completion of the fermentation, leaving residual sugar in the wine. This results in a degree of sweetness which depends on the residual sugar level. Generally speaking, the riper the grapes, the higher the sugar level, meaning higher alcohol levels may be obtained without chaptalisation.

Throughout the wealth of material published about Austrian wines, including the catalogue of wines on this website, you will see many references to KMW. This is simply a must-weight scale indicating the sugar content of the grapes at harvest time. It is used in the definition of the different quality categories. The KMW system was developed by August Wilhelm Freiherr von Babo (1827-1894), and expresses the sugar content of the must as a percentage of weight. It can be converted to the more widely used scale, Oeschle, by multiplying by a factor of 5.

Sweetness, although it can be measured by residual sugar, is of course a sensual experience, and is therefore subjective. Most Austrian wines are quite dry. Some, especially speciality wines such as Beerenausleses and Trockenbeerenausleses, many of which come from Botrytis-friendly regions such as the Neusiedlersee, are very, very, sweet. Of the dry ones, there are quite a few which have residual sugar levels which elsewhere in the world would have the wines labelled "sweet", "halbtrocken", or "lieblich" - but they simply don't taste "sweet". The effect of a few grams per litre of residual sugar is to enhance the fruit in the wine, to give it extra depth, to add to it another dimension, yet which is not deserving of the term "sweet". Sure, drink a steely dry Chablis, and follow it quickly with a late-harvest Austrian Riesling with a modest residual sugar level, and you may find the Riesling has detectable sweetness, but without the comparison it would not seem thus. This is mirrored in Germany, with producers such as Leitz, Hasselbach, Loosen, and Donnhoff producing this fruit-driven style of wine with residual sugar levels at the upper end of what is permissible as "Trocken" or even beyond. I like to drink dry white wines - dessert wines apart, I would almost always plump for "dry" - and yet none of the fruit-driven wines from Austria or Germany with this modest residual sugar level either seem overtly sweet or have in my view suffered - quite the opposite - I feel this style has more flavour, and is much more food-friendly, with an extra depth of flavour not always available in bone-dry wines - which of course have their place. So if you like dry wines, don't be put off by the thought of a modest amount of residual sugar at levels one would normally equate with wines which are not "trocken". In many cases we list in the wine catalogue the residual sugar levels.

Austrian Winemakers

We are pleased to provide the following profiles of our suppliers. The order in which these entries appear is of no significance. Some of the producers have their own websites, and some links are provided.

Dinstlgut Loiben

The Dinstlgut Loiben is the smaller of two co-operatives in the Wachau, the larger one being Freie Weingärtner Wachau. The Dinstlgut is also the only co-operative we deal with in any of the regions that we represent, and we do so happily because we know that the quality of the product is excellent. The Dinstlgut has a range of wines, mainly Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, but with some other varieties also, many produced from optimal primary rock sites around Loiben, the best being Loibenberg, Schütt, and Pfaffenberg. Some late harvest wines, up to Trockenbeerenauslese are also produced in tiny quantities.

The 1000-year old Felsenkellar hewn out of rock at the Dinstlgut Loiben

There is over 1000 years wine history here; this area was first settled, and vines first grown as far back as 860AD. The Dinstlgut has a magnificent rock cellar - the Felsenkeller - which is 1000 years old. Today this is used as a shop and to host events such as art exhibitions. The historical roots of the Dinstlgut estates go back to the middle ages, when much of the property was owned by the Church, and this lasted until 1830, when Dr. Ferdinand Dinstl took over the property as a family estate, thereby giving it the name Dinstl. The Dinstl line died out a century later however, when childless Hedwig Dinstl died, and the property was taken over by a number of local growers and thus became a co-operative.

Today, the Dinstlgut vinifies grapes from some 230 hectares of vineyards belonging to local growers. The range includes a number of wines from top single vineyard sites, including Loibenberg and Schütt, which are Wachau sites, and Pfaffenberg, which is just over the border in the neighbouring wine district of Kremstal. The Pfaffenberg contribution to the range is notable, however it gives the Dinstlgut marketing disadvantage; as only producers making 100% Wachau wines are entitled to use the Wachau classifications of Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd, thus preventing The Dinstlgut using this classification even for its best single-vineyard Wachau wines. This is compensated for by the Dinstlgut wines offering extremely good value for money.

Dinstlgut Cellarmaster Rolf Clemens, with Manager Elisabeth Altenriederer

Elisabeth Altenriederer (pictured left), a trained oenologist who previously looked after sales and marketing, has recently taken over at the helm of the Dinstlgut, and has overseen a number of recent improvements. The whole Dinstlgut team today comprises some 20 staff, and about 300 growers in the region have their grapes vinified here.

Dinstlgut wines have won numerous accolades, including those given by:-

The Beverage Testing Institute, Chicago
Japan Wine Challange 2003
Gault Millau Guide
"Best Of Sweet"/International Wine Challenge 2001
Wine Spectator April 2000
Falstaff Guide 2002/2003
SALON Austrian wine 2000/2001

Weingut Leo Alzinger, Unterloiben

Gentle-natured Leo Alzinger, based in Unterloiben, is without doubt one of the true Wachau superstars. This fine estate makes superlative single vineyard wines from premium mountain sites including Loibenberg, Steinertal, and Liebenberg, with soil types including sandy loam and eroded primary rock. The estate totals about 8 hectares, and production is very small at just 5000 cases per year. Grape varieties are 55% Grüner Veltliner, 40% Riesling, and a tiny 5% parcel of Chardonnay. There are in fact two Leo Alzingers - Father and son - with Leo Junior having joined his Father in 2000, following his viticultural training at Klosterneuberg, and time spent in New Zealand (Marlborough) and in the Pfalz, Germany, notably with Hans-Günter Schwarz of the famed Müller-Catoir estate. Leo Alzinger's wines are simply awesome; they are right up there with the very best the Wachau has to offer, and deserve every bit of attention they can get. The superstar status is well deserved, yet this remains a small family business, embodying individuality and an unceasing quest for quality. We are extremely pleased to have been given the chance to offer Herr Alzinger's wines to the UK market.

Alzinger wines are authoritative and intense, of great purity, and are built for the long haul. The various vineyard sites display somewhat differing characteristics, with the primary rock sites showing pronounced minerality, and the alluvial sites more fruit. Yet they are all stunning. In every recent vintage, Alzinger wines are amongst the best in Austria. Wines from the flagship Loibenberg and Steinertal sites are much in demand; these are extremely scarce, and availability can be problematic.

Despite having tried (and loved) Alzinger wines on occasions in the past, my first serious encounter with the Alzingers themselves was on a bitterly cold day in January 2004, when I visited them as part of my research for the Austrian range. After I made the transition from the freezing streets of Unterloiben to the welcoming warmth of chez Alzinger, Leo Junior conducted a tasting of a dozen or so barrel samples of the 2003 vintage wines (everything else was long gone!) which to a wine were spectacular, despite being so young. For me, the highlight of the tasting was the Loibner Grüner Veltliner Reserve, a stunning wine already very forward and open despite its youth. Alzinger wines of whatever age, and whatever grape variety, are delicious, although can sometimes seem timid in their very early youth. However as they age, they evolve splendidly into wines of immense personality and character. But try finding a mature bottle on sale! One of the problems with the combination of reputation and smallness is that everything - and I do mean everything - sells out so soon, meaning only the newest wines can be bought (and only in tiny quantities, and only then if you are quick). More recently however, the winemaking style has been fine-tuned to make the wines a bit more approachable when young.

Some of the best Austrian wine you will ever taste......

Alzinger wines receive numerous accolades; recent ones include:-

À la Carte Trophy Gourmet for the best Austrian Weingut 2003
Vinaria Trophy 1999, 2001 and 2003
Wine and Spirits Magazine January 2004 - in a recent tasting in New York, positions 1 and 2 in the top 5 Austrian White Wines were taken by Alzinger wines. (1st - Alzinger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2002 Loibner Mühlpoint, 95 points - 2nd - Alzinger Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2002 Loibner Mühlpoint Grüner Veltliner, 93 points)
Gault Millau Gourmetfuehrer 2004 - Weingut Alzinger awarded 3 grapes/clusters (17/20 points), and considered to be amongst the 15 best Wine enterprises in Austria.
Stephen Tanzers International Wine Cellar - Top awards for Grüner Veltliner Steinertal 2002, Riesling Smaragd Hollerin 2002, Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg 2002

Weingut Michael Schweighofer, Oberloiben

The Schweighofers run a small Domaine (about 4 hectares) in the village of Unterloiben. This is very much a family business, more akin to most of our Beaujolais suppliers than are our other Austrian suppliers. In addition to the winemaking side of the business, there is also a Heurige and comfortable rooms are available to let to tourists. Michael speaks quite good English, and this would be an excellent place to stay on a visit to the region. We have been coming here for many years, and have been unfailingly impressed with their wines, which offer fantastic value for money.

The Schweighofers run an excellent Heurige, normally open for 5 two-week periods a year. Heurige is the Austrian word for both new vintage wine, and also a traditional form of tavern where it can be drunk. Usually, heurige open only for a few weeks each year, taking their turn with others according to the heurigenkalender - a directory of Heurige and their schedules, usually these are published on a regional basis. In Vienna, the Wachau, and Burgenland, a splendid way to enjoy a summer evening is to spend it drinking the local wines in a Heurige. Traditionally, Heurige signify their being open by hanging pine boughs over the door, and have outdoor seating with tables in an enclosed courtyard, under a grape arbor. Wine is served in glass mugs, and food is often also serve, usually a cold buffet based on ham, cheese, and salds, although sometimes also offering hot roast meats such as chicken and pork. Heurige are popular with tourists and locals alike, and sometimes attract coach parties.

The range of wines offered by the Schweighofers includes classic Austrian whites including Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, and Neuberger, grown on some prime sites around the village. In particular the Schweighofers have holdings on the Loibenberg, and other vineyards including Ried Höhereck and Ried Frauenweingarten. Grape varieties used include Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, and Neuberger.

Weingut Josef Jamek, Joching

No account of the Austrian wine industry would be complete without an understanding of the pivotal role that Josef Jamek has played in its development. It was in the 1950s that Jamek was one of a small number of pioneers who launched ranges of dry, non-chaptalised wines with lower alcohol than was typical. Set against a backdrop of sweeter wines, this was revolutionary, but laid the foundation for the way in which winemaking in the Wachau would develop in the following decades. Jamek also inspired the founding of the "Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus" association to regulate and protect the wines of the region.

Josef Jamek is now retired, and has passed the running of the estate to his youngest daughter Jutta and her husband Hans Altmann, whose first vintage was that of 1995. The estate today covers some 25 hectares, and includes such top sites as Ried Achleiten, Ried Klaus, Ried Pichl and Ried Freiheit, which constitute probably the best collection of privately owned sites anywhere in Austria. Soil types are eroded primary rock, gravel, loess, and gneiss. Annual production is just 8300 cases - which if you do the sums gives an average yield of just under 30 hl/hectare. The principal grape varieties grown here are Riesling (50%), and Grüner Veltliner (30%), but others also grown include Weissburgunder, Chardonnay, Zweigelt, and Pinot Noir.

In addition to the Weingut, the estate also runs a lovely restaurant next to the Danube in Joching, in which regional specialities can be sampled, along with the estate wines by the glass. The restaurant is indeed a very special place - a timeless haven of peace, serenity, and sophisticated elegance, with impeccable service and fine food. Few such places remain in our modern hectic world, and I urge anyone visiting the region to dine there. The restaurant is a pivotal part of the business, and to a great extent its public face. The wines go so well with the food that one has the impression they were made to be drunk there.

The Ried Klaus is the jewel in the crown of the portfolio of Jamek vineyards. Extending on steep slopes overlooking the Danube, it has over 100 stone terraces. If ever there was an Austrian Grand Cru, this is it. Ried Klaus wines have now been bottled for over 40 years. These are wines of great complexity - amazingly profound creations which reflect the terroir perfectly, and which almost transcend the grape variety - although the Riesling expresses it perfectly.

Weingut Karl Lagler, Spitz-an-der-Donau

The Lagler family has lived on the estate at 10 Rote Torgasse (Red Gate Lane) in the upper part of the town of Spitz, above the Church, for 10 generations - since 1789. For most of this time they have grown grapes and sold them to others for vinification, but at the end of the 1970s they decided to stop selling their grapes to the Freie Weingärtner Wachau Co-operative and instead make their own wine. This was indeed a turning point; today, Karl Lagler produces first class fruit-driven wines from some of the best sites in Spitz, including Steinborz, Tausendeimerberg, and Burgberg. The best Ried is arguably Steinborz, in which Riesling and Grüner Veltliner are grown. Some wines are made from other grape varieties, including Austrian varieties such as Neuberger and Gelber Muskateller, and international varieties including Sauvignon Blanc, of which the Laglers make a truly amazing example. Many of the vines are old, and the low yields and high concentration of flavours, together with natural farming techniques and quality driven approach to winemaking produce exceptional wines. The estate is currently 9 hectares, about two-thirds of which are terraced sites.

The Laglers also run a Buschenschank in Spitz, where the wines can be sampled by the glass along with meals. They also run the handsome "Weinberghof" hotel, ideally set in the vineyards above Spitz, an ideal base for visitors to the area.