Austrian Wine - an Overview
Austria is, by world standards, a tiny wine producing nation, with
only some 1% of world output; a real tiddler. Wine has been made here for
at least 3 millenia, and today Austria produces world-class dry white wines
which are widely praised by the wine press the world over. There are also
serious reds being made by talented growers who take their lead from Burgundy
and Bordeaux, and some of the best sweet wines on earth.
Austria has its
own range of unique grape varietals, and these will be found in all these
styles of wine. With high demand at home (average annual consumption is 33
litres/head), and limited prduction, not much gets exported. Austria is a
wine country of great originality and its own unique wine culture like no
other on earth, influenced largely by tavern culture in which wine-making
families make a wide range of wines for sale to customers. Are Austrian wines
the world's best-kept wine secret? Maybe they have been, but this is starting
to change. The active state-funded Austrian Wine Marketing Board promotes
Austrian wines the world over, and exports are rising. Yet Austrian wines
remain hardly well-known in the UK
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So what exactly does it Austria have to offer?
- world-class dry whites from Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc and Grüner Veltliner
- Possibly the most flexible and food-friendly whites in the entire world.
- some of the world's best Pinot Blancs
- fascinating indigenous red varieties such as Zweigelt, Saint
Laurent, and Blaufränkisch which create medium to heavyweight wines
which are great with food, have unique tastes, and which smell just fantastic.
- a dynamic and youthful winemaking culture, with growers not afraid
to experiment in the quest for quality.
- some of the best sweet wines on the face of the earth, from one
of the most remarkable places in the world for botrytis-affected wine - the
Neusiedlersee. Beerenausleses, Trockenbeerenausleses,
and the obscure Ausbruchs which are exotic, full, luscious,
and which go on forever.
- history, great depth of culture, heart-breakingly beautiful scenery,
quaint villages, baroque architecture, good food, and of course the heurige,
which combine to make it a refined wine-tourism destination par excellence.
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Austrian Winegrowing Regions
For administrative purposes, Austria is divided into four main winegrowing regions, these being sub-divided into a total of 18 different winegrowing areas. Some information about each of these 18 follows; this is more detailed for those areas we represent.
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Overview
The
Wachau is the region along the banks of the Danube at the eastern end of
the larger region known as Niederösterriech (Lower Austria). It is centred
around the Baroque masterpiece of Melk, and stretches along the Danube
for some 30km, encompassing towns including Spitz-an-der Donau, Joching,
Weissenkirchen, Dürnstein, Loiben, and Mautern. Undoubtedly one
of the most treasured of Austria's winegrowing areas, the Wachau produces
some of the best white wines in Austria, including world-class Rieslings and
some of the best Grüner Veltliners you will ever taste. Not only are
the wines sublime, but the countryside too is beautiful, with apricot orchards
and steep terraced vineyards on both sides of the river melting harmoniously
into mediaeval villages, with the Danube itself - some 200 metres wide here
- providing a majestic backdrop to the beauty of the region.
Vineyards
Here too is history, with centuries of winemaking
and architecture bringing an inimitable atmosphere and vivacity. There are
ancient castles, including the Hinterhaus at Spitz, and a fortress at Dürnstein,
where Richard the Lionheart was held in the 12th century. This is indeed
winemaking country par excellence. The region blooms during
the apricot season in the springtime (Apricot, or Marillen brandy
is another regional speciality) - and this is a wonderful time to visit -
but anytime is the perfect time to savour the wonderful wines from this most
delightful of regions. The Wachau has 1,390 hectares of vines, planted
in soils of weathered primary rock, sand, and loess. In addition to Riesling
and Grüner Veltliner, other typically Austrian varieties grown
here include Neuberger and Gelber Muskateller. The "Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus"
is the local association to which most local winemakers belong, and which
defines the classification of Wachau wines, Steinfeder, Federspiel,
and Smaragd. To the winesGeography
The geology in the Wachau is based around soils
derived from primary rock, known here as urgestein. This
is composed largely of granite, gneiss or mica-schist, although the composition
varies somewhat throughout the region, with slate in the west around Spitz,
more loam in around Weissenkirchen in the central Wachau, and then in the
east around Krems, and the gateway to the Kremstal, some limestone. The
climate in the Wachau varies quite significantly over short distances and
is quite interesting. At the western end, around Spitz, it is cooler, as
here cold winds can blow down from the mountains, so the wines here are
more fragile and have more of a nervy steely character than in the east,
where the land is flatter, and where the climate is starting to become
affected by the Pannonian climate of the great Hungarian Putsch which lies
not far to the east - near the Austrian/Hungarian border, around the Neusiedlersee
this is much more pronounced, with bitterly cold winters and hot arid summers.
Everywhere in the Wachau, the climate is moderated by the proximity of the
river, although it can be very dry in summer and limited irrigation is permitted.
Because of the differences in the climate, the harvest date also varies,
being a bit earlier in the east than around Spitz.
Where to Stay, Eat, and get more information
in the Wachau - Tourist Tips
Goldenes
Schiff, Spitz - old on the outside, modern & comfortable within,
this hotel is located near the river in Spitz and has a pleasant restaurant.
Parking immediately outside. Open in Winter, when many places are closed.
Ask for a room with river views.
Barock Landhof
Burkhardt, Spitz - amazing old hotel in a baroque building in the heart
of Spitz, up the hill a 5-minute walk away from the river. Atmospheric,
quiet, large gardens and parking. Breakfast only, no evening meals. Good
value and highly recommended.
Weingut Schweighofer,
Loiben - family-run winemaking establishment with Heurige and comfortable
rooms. One of our suppliers.
Weingut Lagler,
Spitz - Hotel set amidst vineyards. One of our suppliers.
Jamek Restaurant, Joching
- Sublime food and wine in highly atmospheric surroundings. If you only treat
yourself once during your trip, do it here.
Landhaus
Bacher, Mautern - charming old hotel with top-notch restaurant with
dazzling wine list. |
The Kremstal is the region
lying along the banks of the Danube, bordering and to the east of the
Wachau, centred around the town of Krems. One of the oldest wine centres
in Austria, Krems has always been associated with wine, and its' mediaeval
character has been very well preserved. Today one can stroll through its
its narrow romantic streets, taking in the Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque
architecture. The 2,170 hectares of vines in the
Kremstal produce wines dominated by Grüner Veltliner and Riesling,
with characteristics not unlike those of the Wachau. Grüner Veltliners
are very approachable, with soft fruit and a pepper note. Notable vineyards
include the Kremser Pfaffenberg, below the Baroque Monastery at Göttweig.
In addition to the reputed whites, Kremstal wines also include some very
good reds.
To the wines |
The Weinviertel is located
in the north-eastern part of Austria, near to the border with the Czech
& Slovak Republics. This is the largest winegrowing region in Austria,
with more than 15,000 hectares of vineyards, the principal grape varieties
grown being Grüner Veltliner and Welschriesling, although other white
varieties such as Riesling, Weissburgunder and Chardomnnay are also grown.
Reds too are made from Zweigelt and Blauer Portugieser. The region has
many charming wine villages and towns, many with "Kellergassen", streets
lined with cellars resembling struccoed houses. Interesting towns include
Retz, Eggenburg, Falkenstein, and Poysdorf, possibly Austria's most picturesque
wine town.
To the wines |
This is the picturesque region around Langenlois, Austrtia's largest wine
town which is located to the west of Vienna, and which takes its name
from the river Kamp. As with the Wachau and Kremstal, the primary grape
varieties are Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, grown on some 3,800
hectares of primary rock, loess, and clay soils. Winegrowing history here
goes back a long way; the local museum in Langenlois has exhibits showing
that this region has been populated by man since the stone age, and the
Heiligenstein vineyard is mentioned in the Zwettl Abbey register of 1280,
which refers to it as "Hellenstein", or hell stone, on a mountain where
the sun "burns like hell". During the day, the hillsides are heated by
the sun's rays, whilst at night they are cooled by the fresh breeze from
the Waldviertel to the north.
To the wines |
This is a region in Lower Austria to the south-east of Vienna, south of
the river Danube. Excavations from 4000 years ago testify that wine was
grown here in pre-Roman times; over the centuries, terraced vineyards
have been dug into the loess soils. Today some 680 hectares yield mostly
Grüner Veltliner wines which are fresh, fruity, and zesty. Modest
amounts of Chardonnay and Riesling are also grown. The region is
centred around the wine villages of Nussdorf, Getzersdorf, and Reichersdorf,
which are surrounded by vineyards stretching to the Alpine foothills.
This is a pretty region, and vineyard walks are rewarded with views over
glorious countryside.
To the wines |
To
the north-west of Vienna, along the Danube, and centred around the town
of Tulln, lies Wagram, previously known as Donauland. This is a wine-growing
district of some 2,730 hectares, producing wines including Grüner
Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, and the regional speciality
Roter Veltliner. In the eastern part of the Donauland is Klosterneuberg,
with its imposing 900-year old monastery (which houses the largest winery
in Austria) and the famous research centre and school of viticulture.
To the wines |
South-east of Vienna, and to the north of the Neusiedlersee is the district
known as Carnuntum, with its 890 hectares of vines. Deep soils, cooling
winds from the Danube plains, and the tempering influence of the lake
combine to produce a climate ideal for the cultivation of Grüner
Veltliner, Zweigelt, and Blaufränkisch. It is these latter red wines
in particular for which Carnuntum is rapidly becoming known; monumental
Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch, bursting with fruit and ripe tannins,
plus quality Cabernet Sauvignon, make this a region to be watched.
To the wines |
South of Vienna is the district
known as Thermenregion, which takes its name from ancient thermal baths
(Baden is today still a spa town). Thermenregion is centred around the
wine villages of Gumpoldskirchen, Traiskirchen, Sooss, Guntramsdorf, Tattendorf,
and Perchtoldsdorf. This is heurigen country par excellence,
with many establishments frequented by visitors from nearby Vienna. The
district is often compared with the Côte d'Or in France due to similar
soil formation and climate. Many grape varieties are grown here but of
particular interest are the rare indigenous Rotgipfler and Zierfandler,
which give exotic wines with quince and orange aromas, have good body,
and age extremely well.
To the wines |
Technically, the sub-zone known as Neusiedlersee extends around the eastern
side of the lake of the same name. Nuesiedlersee - Hügelland
is the region around the western side of the lake, centred around Eisenstadt
and extending away from the lake as far as Wiener Neustadt. The area around
the Neusiedlersee, a shallow steppe lake straddling the
Hungarian border, is one of the most amazing places on earth for the production
of sweet botrytis-affected wines. Only here, around the lake, and in Hungary's
Tokajhegyalja does the Botrytis cinerea, or
noble rot, attack grapes so reliably every year. Other great sweet wine
regions in Germany and France also make superb sweet wines, but not dependably
every year, as the fungus does not attack elsewhere as reliably as it
does here; meaning that the sweet wines from this region are more plentiful
and hence generally cheaper than exalted examples from better-known sources.
Austrian sweet wines are also much less known in the UK, although this
is a shame, as they are amongst the best in the world. A variety of other
top-quality red and white wines are also found here, from both Austrian
and international varieties.
To the Burgenland wines |
In the far east of Austria, alongside the Hungarian border to the south
of the Neusiedlersee, is the district of Mittelburgenland. This is a region
of forested hills, with deep clay soils, and winegrowing here is very
much focused on red wine grapes, and in particular one variety - the Blaufränkisch,
so much so in fact that the district has earned the nickname "Blaufränkischland".
Some exceptional red wines are produced here from this variety, with its
racy structure and marked acidity. Also found are smaller quantities of
Zweigelt, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, which are sometimes blended
with Blaufränkisch.
To the Burgenland wines |
To the south of Mittelburgenland lies Südburgenland, another district
with a strong emphasis on red wines. Here too the Blaufränkisch thrives
in the iron-rich soils, and expresses itself with a fascinating spiciness.
Südburgenland is also known for the regional speciality "uhudler"
- a simple wine made from a near-extinct grape variety vitis labrusca.
To the Burgenland wines |
This is a hilly region in the south-east of Austria, adjacent to the Slovenian
border. A wide range of wines are made from both Austrian and international
varieties. Classic styrian wines include the fresh fruity Welschriesling,
the aromatic Gelber Muskateller, racy weissburgunder, and the fragrant
Sauvignon Blanc.
Südoststeiermark
This pretty region has for the most part gently undulating countryside,
punctuated here and there with strange rock formations that are the last
indicators of its volcanic past. The volcanic soils and cooler climate
give wines which are spicy and aromatic. Varieties grown include a mix
of modern international (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay) and traditional
(Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, Zweigelt, Traminer). Most winegrowers
here are part-timers; average plot size is only around 0.5 hectares (just
over an acre).
To the Styria wines |
Western Styria is a bit of an oddball district, producing nearly exclusively
one wine, a salmon pink Rosé known as Schilcher made
from the Blauer Wildbacher grape. This has high acidity, but correct winemaking
techniques allow the creation of wines of elegance and sophistication,
leading to Schilcher's current cult status. Schilcher is not seen much
outside the region, other than in Viennese bars. Small amounts of sekt
and traditional reds and whites are also made. The countryside is idyllic,
much of it pristine forest. The photo shows the klapotetz, a
wooden windmill designed to make a clacking noise to scare birds away
from the grapes.
To the Styria wines |
Vienna is the only major capital city in the world with significant wine
production nearby. The vines still extend, however, into parts of the
city itself, as they have done for hundreds of years. Today, in and around
Vienna ar some 680 hectares of vines, planted mainly on slate, gravel,
loam and loess soils. Main varieties are Grüner Veltliner, Pinot
Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Zweigelt, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Most of
the wine is destined for the city's heurigen, and is intended to be drunk
young. Sales of higher quality bottled wine are however increasing, and
some exceptional wines are being made. Best areas: Heiligenstadt, Nussdorf,
Sievering, Grinzing, and around the Bisamberg hill.
There is almost a ring of vineyards around Vienna's city center, within easy reach of a direct tram ride. Viennese will often on a nice day take the tram out to go for lunch in a wine bar (Heuriger) ideally one attached to a winery in a vineyard district. If you are visiting Vienna for business or tourism, take the time to do the same
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Bergland
In spite of what many online stores and sites say, Bergland is not another spelling of Burgenland. The Bergland is the only western wine growing region in Austria - it is very small in comparison to the wine production of the East. It covers the hillsides of the Autrian Alps from Salzburg to Austrian Tyrol. It is often not even mentioned on sites that cover Austrian wines due to the tiny production. |
Austrian Wine Grape Varieties
Riesling
Just about all of Austria's greatest dry whites are made from Riesling. Many
would say Riesling is the best wine grape in the world. To give of its best
though, it is fussy about where it is planted - and it simply thrives on
many outstanding sites in Austria - on mainly primary rock, or urgestein
soils. Austrian Rieslings are a revelation, yet are quite different
from those from Germany or Alsace. In Austria, fine Rieslings are typically
dry and substantial, some with as much as 14% alcohol, yet have a raciness
and delicacy arguably unsurpassed anywhere. The minerality in these wines
is also very special, like no other elsewhere. Often they have pronounced
citrus aromas and flavours, and sometimes complex tropical fruits.
Riesling is found in many Austrian wine districts, but her best Rieslings
come from the Wachau, with the Kremstal a close second; it is in these districts
that we find a high proportion of primary rock soils, and many terraced vineyard
sites, offering maximum exposure to the sun and to reflected light from the
Danube as it wends its way through the river valley. Also these regions lie
at the boundary between 2 rather different climatic zones - the Pannonian
climate of Burgenland and the flat Hungarian plains to the east, and the
cooler pre-alpine climate to the west. Everywhere in the Wachau, the climate
is moderated by the proximity of the river, although it can be very dry in
summer and limited irrigation is permitted. Because of the differences
in the climate, the harvest date also varies, being a bit earlier in the
eastern Wachau and in the Kremstal than in the western Wachau around Spitz.
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Grüner Veltliner
If you are not already familiar with the delights of Austrian wines,
then you are unlikely to have tried this variety before, for it is grown
almost exclusively in Austria, apart from a small amount in Hungary and
the Czech Republic. (Someone somewhere may have tried it in a new-world
vineyard, but I've not come across it myself). In Austria, it represents
just over a third of the area under vine, so it is a very significant variety
there - probably the most significant. I simply love Grüner Veltliner
(GV); it is amazing stuff which deserves better recognition. GV is incredibly
flexible; not only does it produce wines which are simply delicious, they
partner so many foods that you would not immediately imagine a good wine
match for - it is arguably the world's most flexible grape at the table.
GV makes many different styles of wine, the spectrum ranging from basic lightweight
versions (including heurige wines) through to world class big-wine
stunners which can put other top grape varieties to shame when handled correctly
- and everything in-between. The everyday version is ideal as a summer thirst-quencher,
great for picnics, barbeques, and general good-weather hedonism - with or
without food. The serious versions challenge other lofty white wines
very effectively. There have been several recent instances of professional
tastings where GV, up against heavyweights such as top white Burgundies costing
several times as much, has taken the top honours. And these results are repeated
over and over; and are not one-off flukes.
So what is GV like? Unlike most stuff you've tasted before. I find
it quite hard to distinguish cleanly between GV's aromas and flavours, because
the two seem so very intertwined. It isn't a highly aromatic variety, which
may partially explain this, but GV is often described as being spicy, with
aromas/flavours which include freshly ground white pepper, meadow flowers,
underripe melon, green vegetables, (green beans and freshly broken pea-pods
spring to mind), newly mown grass, a flinty minerality, and undefined citrussy
notes, sort of halfway between lime and grapefruit. Lentils, mustard, and
cress are commonly cited. Fruitier examples may show rhubarb and strawberry
aromas. Depending on where it's grown, there may also be tropical & stone
fruit (peaches, apricots) an earthiness, and a mossy/herby/undergrowth smell.
Iron ore springs to mind too. GV can indeed be complex. GV epitomises sharp
green things in general; so maybe I should be radical here, and give GV a
whole new category all of its own - we've got red wines, we've got white
wines, well maybe what GV needs is a green wine category.
And GV ages superbly. It lasts longer than Riesling, and it takes a
long time to mature. Which in many ways is a shame, because the best wines
are hard to come by, so you normally have to age them yourself. But age GV does, and rather
differently to Riesling - there is no sign of the petrol note so often referred
to with Riesling, and the depth of flavour and complexity that can develop
is nothing short of awesome. The texture can become somewhat chewy
and sinuous, with a spicy/cressy/mushroom character that no other variety
I know offers. I recently drank a 1995 Ried Achleiten Federspiel from Jamek
- a serious wine when first bottled, but this older example was a revelation,
with a sinewy meaty chewy texture, a complex spicy minerality, and a quite
remarkable panoply of mushroomy, peppery, and cressy flavours. And this was
just the Federspiel, which at 9 years old, was just getting into its stride.
Regrettably I don't have any of the Smaragd, which must be better still (how
is hard to imagine). And at the more serious end of the spectrum, GV even
goes well with foods you would have considered traditional red wine territory
- and heavy reds at that. It cuts through flavoursome foods, especially fatty
ones, with no difficulty. For example, try it with foie gras
or confit de canard (where a heavy red Madiran might typically
be thought a good choice). GV is good young or mature - it's just different.
And costs? Top Austrian wines will regrettably never be cheap, but GV runs
to somewhat less than equiivalent quality Rieslings, maybe 10-15% less, which
is probably about right - because the Rieslings are that bit harder to cultivate,
and the best Rieslings probably do have the edge in terms of the finer flavours,
but GV will at all levels from jug-wine to the most serious stuff nearly
always represent a better bet and better value than comparable wines from
most other well-known international grape varieties.
So all things considered, GV is a very flexible and practical wine - and
not just for drinkers, but also in the vineyard. It isn't fussy about soil
types, and expresses the terroir well. Wines grown on meagre
primary rock soils such as those in the Wachau exhibit pronounced minerality
and a vegetal spiciness; those grown on fertile alluvial soils are fruitier.
Growers love GV too, as it's relatively low maintenance and is also capable
of high output, although of course better growers restrict yield in the interests
of quality.
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Gelber Muskateller
Not be confused with the inferior high-yielding standard Muscat (Muskat-Ottonel),
this is an altogether better variety, but one which is hard to cultivate.
It is grown only in small quantities, as it is very demanding on location,
being sensitive to rot from fungal attacks and frost, although it is not
fussy about soil type. The wines are highly fragrant, with an intense floral
bouquet, with the best having a sweet grassiness, and good acidity. They
make an excellent summer wine. There are records of the Gelber Muskateller
being grown in the Wachau as long ago as 1400, although there is also a long
tradition of its cultivation in Styria and Burgenland. It is used to make
wines in a variety of styles all the way up to Prädikat, with the stronger
examples having tremendous storage potential.
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Chardonnay
An international variety which has found some popularity in Austria in recent
years. Now grown quite widely, but still in relatively small quantities.
Can produce wines in a variety of styles from fresh and fruity through to
rich and buttery.
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Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc)
An international variety that is widely grown the world over, but is particularly
well-known in Alsace, where some excellent examples are made. Excellent yes,
but the best Pinot Blancs in the world emanate from Austria, where the variety
is grown quite widely, but with particular representation in the areas
around the Neusiedlersee, Styria, Vienna, and Lower Austria including the
Wachau and Kamptal. The quality of Austrian Pinot Blanc wines is outstanding,
with true world-class examples which can stand along anything grown in
Alsace. In Austria, even mid-range Pinot Blancs are stylish, with flavours
of almonds and good acidity. The best are concentrated, amazingly complex,
and age well in bottle, some in excess of a decade.
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Neuberger
An Austrian white variety which is believed to be a natural cross between
Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner, originating from the Spitzer Graben area in
the Wachau. Relatively easy to cultivate, and not particularly demanding
on soil types, although it does best on primary rock. Neuberger produces
wines with relatively neutral fragrance, but which are refined and elegant,
often with a pronounced nutty taste. The best Neubergers are probably from
the Wachau, but interesting examples are also found in Burgenland and Thermenregion,
where Neuberger is also a popular heurige wine.
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Roter Veltliner
Not particularly well-named for a white grape variety, Roter Veltliner is
a very old indigenous Austrian variety, thought to originate from Lower Austria,
grown today there and also in the Kremstal and Donauland regions. Produces
wines which are greenish-yellow, fragrant and fruity, with spicy aromas;
can be quite acidic.
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Rotgipfler
A natural cross of Traminer and Roter Veltliner, first documented around
1840 in Styria, but now grown principally in Thermenregion, where it has
helped to establish the reputation gained by the wines of Gumpoldskirchen.
The wines are golden-yellow with a prominent fresh spicy bouquet, and are
rich and fruity, and often high in alcohol.
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Sauvignon Blanc
An international variety which was first planted in Austria over 100 years
ago. A fresh stimulating wine with racy acidity and good structure, it has
a greenish-yellow colour, with aromas of newly mown grass and paprika. Can
age very well. The best Austrian examples are from Styria, but very impressive
specimens can be found also in Lower Austria, in particular in the Wachau,
although quantities here are tiny.
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Welschreisling
The 2nd most widely grown grape variety in Austria after Grüner Veltliner,
with some 8.9% of vineyards planted with it, mainly in Burgenland, Lower
Austria, and Styria. It is quite picky about where it will grow, preferring
protection from wind and soils that are not too dry. It produces fresh fruity
wines which are spicy, and which are for the most part best drunk young;
indeed it is a popular heurige wine. Can also make excellent
Prädikat wines.
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Zierfandler (Spätrot)
Another oddly named variety - Spätrot (late red) is a white grape.
Probably originally from Lower Austria, and now grown almost exclusively
in Thermenregion, it is the other mainstay of the wines from Gumpoldskirchen.
Only some 100 hectares are grown, making it very rare. The wines are golden
yellow, and have a fruity bouquet and good acidity. Most is produced with
some residual sugar, and it is often blended with Rotgipfler.
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Austrian Wine Grape Varieties
- Red
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(Blauer) Zweigelt
A cross of St. Laurent with Blaufränkisch, developed at Klosterneuberg
in 1922 by Professor Fritz Zweigelt, who gave it his name. Zweigelt wines
are a deep cherry-red, with aromas of cooked sour cherries, and sometimes
chocolate. They smell just fantastic. On the palate they are dry, with pronounced
cherry/raspberry flavours and often a spicy earthiness. It ranges in quality
from a light wine right through to powerful blockbusting examples; it grows
well in most places, but particularly good examples are found in Thermenregion
and near the Neusiedlersee. Generally considered the best Austrian
red grape.
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Blaufränkisch
A dark-berried variety which produces wines of real character, which are
deeply fruity and with fine acidity, good tannins, and with flavours of liquorice
and derk berries. Superb chunky examples are made in Burgenland and Thermenregion.
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St. Laurent
An Austrian variety which is believed to be in some way related to Pinot
Noir, and which shares many of the characteristics of that grape. The wines
have aromas of sour cherries & dark berry fruit, and resemble more powerful
versiuons of Pinot Noir. In good years it can produce truly excellent wines,
particularly in Burgenland and Thermenregion. Hard to grow as it suffers
from blossom-drop and Botrytis, and consequently has become less popular
with growers. Often used in blends with other varieties.
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Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir)
Under construction.
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Blauer Portugieser
Under construction.
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Cabernet Sauvignon
Under construction.
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Blauer Wildbacher (Schilcher)
Under construction.
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The Great Austrian Wine Scandal of 1985
One of the more notorious events of recent Austrian
Wine history was the scandal of 1985. The early 1980s had been marked
by a succession of vintages in which favourable climatic conditions and
intensive viticulture combined to produce extremely high yields, and a substantial
amount of wine was made which was of such poor quality as to be virtually
unsaleable. Much Austrian wine was at this time sold into the German market
in bulk, but this market demanded riper (and thus sweeter) wines than these
low-end products, which were light, dilute, and acidic. A cunning chemist
discovered that adding a small amount of diethylene glycol to wines such
as these added a certain body and sweetness to them, and rendered them more
palatable. Diethylene glycol was considered safe, and was very difficult
to detect by the authorities. Tankerloads of doctored wine were shipped
off to Germany masquerading as quality wine, with forged documentation supporting
its supposed provenance. One has to question the intelligence of those perpetrating
the fraud, however, as the scandal came to light when of one of them claimed
for the the cost of the ethylene glycol on his income tax return. A number
of prosecutions followed, and the resulting publicity sent shockwaves through
the world of Austrian wine, tarnishing its reputation on an international
scale. Some countries banned its import altogether. The scale of the fraud
was not really that large, with only a couple of dozen people involved; however
the reaction was significant, and memories of the scandal refuse to go away.
Mention "Austrian Wine" to many and time-worn jokes about anti-freeze will
often be recited.
Following the scandal, the Austrian Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry
imposed strict new laws to regulate the industry, with the intention of preventing
further malpractice, restoring confidence in Austrian wine, and repairing
the damage done to export markets - especially Germany, Austria's largest
customer. These new laws, reinforced by later amendments stipulating upper
limits to yields, today define the Austrian wine classification system.
With the benefit of hindsight, the scandal is now seen by many as a catalyst
for change and as a positive event. Those responsible were middle-men; this
part of the Austrian wine trade has all but disappeared, and nowadays many
more growers deal directly with customers. But more important is the effect
on quality; the strict new laws, plus other regional classification systems
(such as that in the Wachau) were inspired by the need for change and the
desire to improve quality in the wake of the scandal. It is important to
remember that the scandal itself was just a symptom of the poor quality culture
that already pertained in some parts of the trade before 1985, and this issue
too has been addressed as today winemaking styles have changed, away from
flabby sweet wines made in imitation of sweet German wines, towards the dry
whites so highly praised today, and a greater proportion of quality reds. |
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Austrian Wine Quality Classifications
The quality classifications that exist today in Austria are a legacy from
the second world war, when Austria adopted a classification system loosely
based on the German system, but were reinforced by new laws following the
scandal of 1985. The Wachau in particular has created its own system. These
systems are described below. A new system, the "DAC" (Districtus Austria
Controllatus) is currently being trialled in the Weinviertel region. This
is an origin-based system, more like the French AOC. If successful, this may
be rolled out to other regions in time. |
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Austrian
National Classifications
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Tafelwein
(table wine)
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Produced from within Austria, can be
inter-regionally blended or from one region, with a minimum must weight
of 10.7° KMW. A statement of vintage or grape variety is not permitted,
the only exceptions to this being (1) Bergwein - from vineyards with a slope
of more than 26%, and (2) Bottled Heuriger wine - where a stament of vintage
is required.
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Landwein
(country wine)
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Part of the Tafelwein group, but the
grapes must all come from within one wine growing region with no inter-regional
blending allowed. It must have a minimum must weight of 14° KMW, the
dry extract excluding sugar must be at least 17g/litre, and a maximum alcohol
level of 11.5% and 6 g/l residual sugar. No statement may be made
about wine district or specific vineyard.
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Qualitätswein
(quality wine)
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The grapes must all come from a single
wine district, and the minimum permitted must weight is 15° KMW. The
wine is allowed chaptalisation to a maximum of 19° KMW for white wines
and 20° KMW for red wines with minimum alcohol levels of 9.0%. Dry extract
excluding sugar must be at least 18.0 g/litre.
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Kabinett
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These wines are regarded as Qualitätswein,
but have a higher specification - they must have a minimum must weight of
17° KMW, they may not be chaptalised, residual sugar content must not
exceed 9g/litre, and maximum alcohol content is 12.7%.
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Prädikatswein
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This term is used to describe a range
of wines from Spätlese to Eiswein, which are generally regarded
as being sweet. A separate table is shown below with details of the prädikatswein
categories. In all cases, no chaptalisation is permitted, and all residual
sugar must result from interruption or natural termination of the fermentation
process, and therefore be natural. In addition to the ban on chaptalisation,
no enrichment with any other substance (must, grape juice, concentrates)
is permitted. |
Prädikatswein
Categories
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Spätlese
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Spätlese wines should be made from
completely ripe grapes, and have a minimum must weight of 19° KMW. The
wines are not released for sale until March 1st following the harvest.
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Auslese
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Auslese wines are made from selected
completely ripe and botrytised grapes, and have a minimum must weight of
21° KMW. Grape selection should be rigorous, with all faulty or unripe
grapes removed. The wines are not released for sale until May 1st following
the harvest.
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Beerenauslese (BA)
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Beerenauslese wines are made from selected
over-ripe and botrytised grapes, and have a minimum must weight of 25°
KMW. Grape selection should be rigorous, with all faulty or unripe grapes
removed. The wines are not released for sale until May 1st following the
harvest.
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Ausbruch
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Ausbruch wines (principally from Rust
on the Neusiedlersee) are made only from over-ripe botrytised grapes which
have been shrivelled and dried through botrytis whilst still on the vine.
A quantity of freshly pressed grape juice or late harvest wine from the same
vineyard may be added to the grapes to assist in the pressing operation to
extract the maximum sweet juice. The minimum must weight is 27° KMW.
The wines are not released for sale until May 1st following the harvest.
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Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)
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Normally the sweetest wines, Trockenbeerenauslese
wines are made from completely botrytised, shrivelled grape berries, and must
have a minimum must weight of 30° KMW. The wines are not released for
sale until May 1st following the harvest.
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Eiswein
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Incredibly long-lived Eiswein is made
from grapes which are frozen when harvested and pressed; the contents are
concentrated because the water remains in the pressed grape skins as ice.
Eiswein must have a minimum must weight of 25° KMW. The wines are not
released for sale until May 1st following the harvest.
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Wachau Classifications
Most of Austria uses Germanic wine classifications (Kabinet, Spätlese
etc.) but the Wachau uses its own system to classify its wines. This is controlled
by the local "Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus" association, run by key growers.
There are three categories: Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd.
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Steinfeder
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These are the simplest wines. Named
after a local strain of grass that grows in the rocks among the vines, Steinfeder
(literally "Stone feather") wines are light wines to be drunk young. They
have a must weight between 73° and 83° Oeschle, and at most 10.7%
alcohol. These wines can be most attractive when the grapes used are
fully ripe. However, these are really wines to be quaffed in the region at
a heurige on a hot summers evening, rather than being serious
wines appropriate to be exported.
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Federspiel
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Next is Federspiel, which is approximately
equivalent to Kabinett in the Germanic system. The name Federspiel comes
from a device used in falconry to lure the hawk back to the glove. These
wines are rather more serious, and represent the largest part of the Wachau's
output. They have a minimum must weight of 83° Oeschle, and reach 11.5%
alcohol. Nearly always dry, Federspiel wines benefit from at least a few
months in bottle.
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Smaragd
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The best class of Wachau wines, Smaragd
are usually dry, and have not normally been through the second (malolactic)
fermentation. "Smaragd" translates as "emerald", and refers to a species
of lizard which likes to bask in the sun between the vines on a hot summers
day. Smaragd wines are made from fully ripe grapes, with minimum must weight
of 90° Oeschle, and 12% alcohol. Maximum 9g/litre residual sugar. They
are produced in smaller quantities than the other two classifications, and
better ones can be quite hard to get hold of. They will keep well, and many
benefit from a few years bottle aging. Get to know them well; they represent
the very best that Austria has to offer in the way of dry whites, and are
up there with the very best white wines the world produces.
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Sweetness, the Klosterneuburger Mostwaage (KMW), and all that stuff....
Firstly, the basics. It is the sugar in grapes which, when the must is fermented,
turns into the alcohol the wine will contain. When all the sugar has been
converted, the primary fermentation is complete. If there is insufficient
sugar to obtain the desired alcoholic strength, more can be added through
a process known as chaptalisation. On the other hand, fermentation
can be terminated prior to the completion of the fermentation, leaving residual
sugar in the wine. This results in a degree of sweetness which depends on
the residual sugar level. Generally speaking, the riper the grapes, the higher
the sugar level, meaning higher alcohol levels may be obtained without chaptalisation.
Throughout the wealth of material published about Austrian wines, including
the catalogue of wines on this website, you will see many references to KMW.
This is simply a must-weight scale indicating the sugar content of the grapes
at harvest time. It is used in the definition of the different quality categories.
The KMW system was developed by August Wilhelm Freiherr von Babo (1827-1894),
and expresses the sugar content of the must as a percentage of weight. It
can be converted to the more widely used scale, Oeschle, by multiplying by
a factor of 5.
Sweetness, although it can be measured by residual sugar, is of course a
sensual experience, and is therefore subjective. Most Austrian wines are quite
dry. Some, especially speciality wines such as Beerenausleses and Trockenbeerenausleses,
many of which come from Botrytis-friendly regions such as the Neusiedlersee,
are very, very, sweet. Of the dry ones, there are quite a few which have residual
sugar levels which elsewhere in the world would have the wines labelled "sweet",
"halbtrocken", or "lieblich" - but they simply don't taste "sweet". The effect
of a few grams per litre of residual sugar is to enhance the fruit in the
wine, to give it extra depth, to add to it another dimension, yet which is
not deserving of the term "sweet". Sure, drink a steely dry Chablis, and
follow it quickly with a late-harvest Austrian Riesling with a modest residual
sugar level, and you may find the Riesling has detectable sweetness, but
without the comparison it would not seem thus. This is mirrored in Germany,
with producers such as Leitz, Hasselbach, Loosen, and Donnhoff producing this
fruit-driven style of wine with residual sugar levels at the upper end of
what is permissible as "Trocken" or even beyond. I like to drink dry white
wines - dessert wines apart, I would almost always plump for "dry" - and yet
none of the fruit-driven wines from Austria or Germany with this modest residual
sugar level either seem overtly sweet or have in my view suffered - quite
the opposite - I feel this style has more flavour, and is much more food-friendly,
with an extra depth of flavour not always available in bone-dry wines - which
of course have their place. So if you like dry wines, don't be put off by
the thought of a modest amount of residual sugar at levels one would normally
equate with wines which are not "trocken". In many cases we list in the wine
catalogue the residual sugar levels.
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